Uncorked

Tariff-ying times call for alternative wine pairings

Ben Sigurdson 6 minute read Saturday, Mar. 8, 2025

Tarped-over products, empty shelves and, in some cases, business as usual: where you buy your booze will affect what your shopping experience looks when it comes to buying (or avoiding) American products.

During question period on March 6, Premier Wab Kinew noted that American alcohol wouldn’t be returning to Liquor Mart shelves anytime soon despite U.S. President Donald Trump’s flip-flopping and exemption of some Canadian and Mexican goods in the ever-changing tariff situation.

Private wine stores don’t fall under this ruling, and while some have pulled American wines from their shelves, others continue to sell the stuff.

Regardless, it’s easy to find substitutes from other countries for your favourite U.S. wines — including from Canada. For those wanting to buy Canadian but who have typically shied away from our own wines, I’ll have a primer for you in the coming weeks — for now, here’s how to enjoy the flavours of some of your favourite American wines without buying U.S. products.

Savouring the fruits of Sicily’s unique terroir

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Savouring the fruits of Sicily’s unique terroir

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Friday, Dec. 6, 2024

It’s that time of year where best-of lists, forward-looking think pieces and reflections on the year’s highs and lows jostle for room on newspaper pages and clicks on websites.

Which got me thinking that I hadn’t properly chronicled my 2024 highlight when it came to wine — my trip in May to Sicily to visit wineries and attend Sicilia en Primeur, the region’s big industry tasting, courtesy of the Italian Trade Agency and Assovini Sicilia.

A large contingent of media convened on the southern Italian island for the event, with a few days of winery visits in smaller groups before the big trade tasting. Our small group featured journalists and creators from Denmark, the U.K., Japan, France and elsewhere, and was taken to wineries adjacent to and on the foothills of Mount Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe, which looms over the eastern end of the island. (The volcano was quiet while we were there, but got quite feisty a few weeks later.)

First, an overview on Sicilian wines. Generally speaking, the warm Mediterranean climate results in plenty of heat across the island, with ample sun and little rainfall across most of the island. Strong winds blow in from the sea from many directions, some of which can bring rain with them, particularly on and around Mount Etna, as our group was to discover. (More on that in a bit.)

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Friday, Dec. 6, 2024

Ben Sigurdson / Free Press

Sicily is Italy’s largest wine region, best-known for its sweet, fortified amber-brown marsala but producing very well-made reds and whites.

Ben Sigurdson / Free Press
                                Sicily is Italy’s largest wine region, best-known for its sweet, fortified amber-brown marsala but producing very well-made reds and whites.

Scary-good concoctions fit for spooky-season fun

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Preview

Scary-good concoctions fit for spooky-season fun

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Saturday, Oct. 26, 2024

As the end of October nears, the wine-and-Halloween-candy clickbait articles rise from the dead like a graveyard full of zombies.

While I’m no curmudgeonly Halloween grinch, I can’t get into the gastronomical gymnastics of pairing Tempranillo with Tootsie Rolls, Nebbiolo with Nibs or Chianti and Coffee Crisp.

Instead, here are six spooky-themed drinks for your Halloween parties, or to enjoy while handing out candy to the trick-or-treaters…

The Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Black Mass Black Pilsner (Winnipeg — $4.75/473ml cans, brewery, select beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is cloaked in cola-brown colour with a beige head, offering brooding cocoa, dark roasted malt, toasty oats and hints of white pepper and dried fruit aromatically. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with some modest bitterness and the dark chocolate flavour bringing a bite along with the roasted malt and subtle vanilla notes. There’s nothing spooky about the modest five per cent alcohol, and 25 cents from each can goes to 1JustCity, making this an extra-tasty treat. Four grim reapers out of five.

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Saturday, Oct. 26, 2024

Barn Hammer Black Mass Black Pilsner

Barn Hammer Black Mass Black Pilsner

Beat the heat with crushable lighter local beers

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Preview

Beat the heat with crushable lighter local beers

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Friday, Jul. 12, 2024

After enduring an almost- inconceivable number of days with rain, clouds and moderate temperatures, it seems most of the province (at least round these parts) is finally getting its first proper taste of summer.

It’s the perfect time, then, to test drive a half-dozen new light (or lighter), fruit-infused local brews to help beat the heat…

The Good Neighbour Brewing Co. House Lime Lager (Winnipeg — $2.65/355ml cans, brewery) is an American-style lager infused with fresh lime; it’s very pale straw and slightly hazy in colour. Aromatically it brings loads of bright lime notes that work well with the fresh malt and subtle hoppy and yeast notes. It’s very light-bodied and dry, delivering delightful lime flavours along with flaked rice, malt and very low hops notes before the five per cent finish. This deliciously drinkable, very light lager will be gone in a flash in hotter weather. 4/5

One of the latest brews from its brewmaster’s series, the Fort Garry Brewing Co. Summer Breeze Fruited Wheat Beer (Winnipeg — $4.49/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is a wheat beer infused with passionfruit and guava juice concentrate; it’s medium orange-copper in colour and hazy, and aromatically brings loads of tropical fruit, mango and peach aromas, with some underlying wheat notes. It’s medium-bodied and slightly sweet, with tropical fruit concentrate flavours leading the charge, subtle underlying malt and wheat notes, virtually no hop bitterness and a modest 4.5 per cent alcohol finish. It’s a touch too cloying to be a summer thirst quencher, but will please those looking for something fruity without sourness or bitterness. 2.5/5

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Friday, Jul. 12, 2024

Good Neighbour House Lime Lager

Good Neighbour House Lime Lager

Find the perfect wine to grace your holiday dinner table

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

Find the perfect wine to grace your holiday dinner table

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Dec. 10, 2022

Whether you’re stuffing a turkey, glazing a ham or ordering takeout this holiday season, nothing finishes off that perfectly planned festive feast quite like the right bottle of wine. Here are 10 tipples I’ve recently tried that drink well on their own, but would also complement all manner of yuletide eats…

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Saturday, Dec. 10, 2022

PEXELS PHOTO

Find the perfect wine to grace your holiday dinner table

Consider gifting wine, beer or spirits Advent calendars

Ben Sigurdson 6 minute read Preview

Consider gifting wine, beer or spirits Advent calendars

Ben Sigurdson 6 minute read Friday, Nov. 25, 2022

With the holidays looming in the coming weeks, it’s high time to start thinking about gift giving, party hosting and all that kind of fun stuff.

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Friday, Nov. 25, 2022

Nipzzano gift box

Nipzzano gift box

The many styles and flavours of Pinot Noir

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

The many styles and flavours of Pinot Noir

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Nov. 19, 2022

One of the first wines I tackled when I first started writing Uncorked 17 (!) years ago was Pinot Noir. It shouldn’t come as much of a surprise; among wine geeks it tends to be a favourite grape to grapple with. A famously fickle grape to grow, Pinot Noir is made in a wide range of styles in all corners of the globe (including here in Canada) and, when done well, can produce profound wines of exceptional complexity.

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Saturday, Nov. 19, 2022

Gary Nylander / The Canadian Press files

Pinot Noir grapes star in wines made all over the world, embraced by producers here in Canada from British Columbia’s Okanagan to Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley.

Gary Nylander / The Canadian Press files
                                Pinot Noir grapes star in wines made all over the world, embraced by producers here in Canada from British Columbia’s Okanagan to Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley.

Manitoba-made whiskies flowing to distillery shelves

Ben Sigurdson 7 minute read Preview

Manitoba-made whiskies flowing to distillery shelves

Ben Sigurdson 7 minute read Saturday, Nov. 12, 2022

After around 140 years, the first Manitoba-made whiskies not named Crown Royal will be hitting the shelves in the coming months. Yes, that’s whiskies – plural.

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Saturday, Nov. 12, 2022

Kyle Goldstine photo

Patent 5 owner president Brock Coutts Patent 5 whisky

Kyle Goldstine photo
Patent 5 owner president Brock Coutts Patent 5 whisky

Pro/Am Brew Challenge ranged from flawed to fantastic

Ben Sigurdson 7 minute read Preview

Pro/Am Brew Challenge ranged from flawed to fantastic

Ben Sigurdson 7 minute read Friday, Nov. 4, 2022

Not all home brewers are created equal. Some folks pick up user-friendly beer kits from home-brewing supply stores or grocery stores, saving a few bucks and always ensuring a cold one is close at hand.

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Friday, Nov. 4, 2022

Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press

Little Brown Jug head brewer Jeremy Grisim (left) and Winnipeg Brew Bombers president Marc Molet-King taste through the 16 gold medal-winning brews in the final round of the 2022 Pro/Am Beer Challenge at Oxus Brewing Co.

Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press
                                Little Brown Jug head brewer Jeremy Grisim (left) and Winnipeg Brew Bombers president Marc Molet-King taste through the 16 gold medal-winning brews in the final round of the 2022 Pro/Am Beer Challenge at Oxus Brewing Co.

Treat yourself to one of these spooky brews

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Preview

Treat yourself to one of these spooky brews

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Saturday, Oct. 29, 2022

In today’s Free Press arts and life section you’re treated to a roundup of must-see Halloween TV, a Halloween-themed playlist, a preview of WSO’s Nosferatu and more. On Monday, when kids are making the rounds screaming on peoples’ doorsteps, you can read about the team’s taste test of new-to-us treats.

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Saturday, Oct. 29, 2022

New, notable wines include juicy red, fruity white

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

New, notable wines include juicy red, fruity white

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Oct. 22, 2022

Often this space features a particular theme or area of focus — a grape variety or wine-producing region, for example, or a roundup of new local brews or some other insight into wine, beer, food pairing, local events and beyond.

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Saturday, Oct. 22, 2022

Plethora of fall events provide plentiful pairings

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

Plethora of fall events provide plentiful pairings

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Oct. 15, 2022

As we creep ever closer to the (gulp) holiday season, local makers and stores will turn their attention to the inevitable jump in retail traffic.

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Saturday, Oct. 15, 2022

Wines of the week

Ben Sigurdson 2 minute read Friday, Oct. 7, 2022

IF you’ve come to this space seeking Thanksgiving wine recommendations, fret not — I’ve got you covered…

Weszeli 2020 “Felix” Grünew Veltliner (Niederosterreich, Austria — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Green apple, lime zest, crisp pear and hints of spice and chalk all show well on the nose of this organic, vegan Austrian white wine. It’s light-bodied and bone dry, with fresh green apple, pear and lime coming with those spice and chalk notes that provide focus and zip (the medium acidity helps in that department too). A fresh and fun wine that would work as well with turkey or ham as it would with sushi, spring rolls, oysters and milder hors d’oeuvres. 4/5

Low Life Barrel House “Leaps” (Winnipeg/Ontario — $25, brewery/winery, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Popular wine terms and how to use them

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

Popular wine terms and how to use them

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Oct. 1, 2022

The return of the Winnipeg Wine Festival’s main public tastings on Sept. 23 and 24, the first time the RBC Convention Centre hosted the event since 2019, was a chance for agents, reps and winemakers to show off their wares, as well as for curious wine drinkers to find new favourites.

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Saturday, Oct. 1, 2022

Beloki Tempranillo Rioja

Beloki Tempranillo Rioja

Cooler weather means it’s time for toastier beers

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Preview

Cooler weather means it’s time for toastier beers

Ben Sigurdson 4 minute read Saturday, Sep. 24, 2022

With this weekend’s return of the Winnipeg Wine Festival public tastings for the first time since 2019, it would be easy to overlook the timely and welcome return of heartier, more robust beers popping up at breweries, Liquor Marts and beer vendors. As the mercury drops and the leaves change colour, it’s the perfect time to switch from the crisp, refreshing pilsners, lagers, radlers and such that help beat the summer heat to brews that bring richer fall flavours.

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Saturday, Sep. 24, 2022

Retrying tried-and-true classics turns up some changes

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Preview

Retrying tried-and-true classics turns up some changes

Ben Sigurdson 5 minute read Saturday, Sep. 17, 2022

Drinks trends seem to be going in a couple of different directions right now. Some (mainly larger) producers are embracing new trends such as aging wine in bourbon barrels, creating lower-alcohol offerings and hard seltzers, and adding offbeat flavours to products.

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Saturday, Sep. 17, 2022