Travel

PHOTOS BY Gord Mackintosh / Free Press
The bright, multi-levelled PATH pedestrian network runs through Eaton Centre in downtown Toronto.

Toronto teases with world’s second-biggest subterranean shopping complex

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Apr. 4, 2026

Manitoba boasts the world’s biggest snow maze. Ontario boasts one of the world’s biggest sub-snow mazes.

In a city known for structures that reach up and not down, Toronto’s “PATH” was until recently the world’s largest pedestrian subway network/underground shopping complex. Emphasis on “complex.” (PATH was surpassed for the Guinness World Record in 2023 by none other than Montreal’s RÉSO network, with over 32 kilometres of tunnels.)

The PATH links more than 75 downtown buildings and 1,200 businesses. About 200,000 people navigate it each weekday; on weekends, maybe 20.

Margie and I once tried to explore this improbable 30-km-long weatherproof walkway. Off Bay Street, a PATH sign pointed down some stairs. Another sign then pointed toward doors. We ended up in a parkade. And just gave up.

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Most of Burgundy is a patchwork of vineyards.

A trip through Burgundy on the trail of fine wines

Steve MacNaull 4 minute read Preview

A trip through Burgundy on the trail of fine wines

Steve MacNaull 4 minute read Saturday, Mar. 21, 2026

Wine just happens to be grown in the most beautiful places in the world.

“I have noticed that,” said Margaux Laroche with a laugh.

She should know.

She is the seventh-generation owner and winemaker at Le Domaine d’Henri in Chablis, an appellation in France’s stunning and renowned Burgundy wine region.

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Saturday, Mar. 21, 2026

Gord Mackintosh / Free Press
The unstoppable Henry and Margie Mackintosh sled down a hill across from our West Hawk Lake Resort cabin.

West Hawk wonderment: friendly fauna, hills and spills enliven winter visit

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

West Hawk wonderment: friendly fauna, hills and spills enliven winter visit

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Mar. 7, 2026

Travel Manitoba calls it a “summer town.” We nonetheless booked a cabin at West Hawk Lake in winter. Nothing to do with off-season rates, of course. Moreover, cosy cabins around New Year’s Eve were thankfully available.

Created by a huge meteor smashing to Earth millions of years ago, I doubtfully assured the family, “That happened years back. I’d bet it won’t happen again this week.” I almost added, “Just in case, wear hats.”

From the backseat, our four-year-old grandson Henry asked, “Can I see the meteor?” I explained, “It’s under the lake. But it made big hills!” When that didn’t thrill him, I pivoted, “We’ll go sliding!”

We discovered a fairly bare hill right across from our West Hawk Lake Resort cabin. But sleds find any tree, log or hump.

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Saturday, Mar. 7, 2026

The Smith Dorrien Trail hugs the mountain-embraced Spray and Kananaskis lakes.

Peak season, year-round

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Peak season, year-round

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Feb. 7, 2026

“Stop staring sideways while driving!” Margie exclaimed as we cruised through Alberta’s attention-seeking Rockies.

I quipped, “But you’re watching the road, eh?”

The Rocky Mountains are barefaced, blatant, brazen show-offs. Each massif’s wardrobe appears ever-changing as the day unfolds. When someone exclaims, “Oh, wow! Do you believe it?” and no one is nearby — that’s a Manitoban in the Rockies.

Entering Canmore, I told Margie, “I wanna hug those giants!” I first suggested we tour, and crawl, in Canmore’s Rat’s Nest Cave. The tour operator told us, “And there’s actually a rat living near the entrance!” Oddly, Margie said, “Um, no.”

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Saturday, Feb. 7, 2026

Taylor Allen and Janelle Yarjau take in the Grand Sumo Tournament in May at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Hall, in Tokyo.

Don’t miss these must-see spots, experiences on next Tokyo trip

Taylor Allen 7 minute read Preview

Don’t miss these must-see spots, experiences on next Tokyo trip

Taylor Allen 7 minute read Saturday, Jan. 17, 2026

You can spend a lifetime in Tokyo and still not experience everything the city has to offer.

That’s what makes Japan’s bustling capital so captivating. It’s also what makes it so overwhelming if you’ve never been before.

If you’re fortunate enough to be going in the near future, here are five things you might not know that could help you squeeze everything out of your Tokyo trip.

Sumo wrestling

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Saturday, Jan. 17, 2026

Fairmont Copacabana photo
The infinity pool at the Fairmont Copacabana flows toward the beach and Atlantic Ocean.

Rio’s urban rainforest

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Preview

Rio’s urban rainforest

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Saturday, Dec. 20, 2025

Just like the Baroness d’Escragnolle, my wife is luxuriating in the cascade of a waterfall.

Kerry raises her face to the cool tumble of water and flicks her hair, much like the 19th century aristocrat must have.

This re-creation of nobility is happening at Cascata de Baronesa, which means in Portuguese, “Baroness Waterfall.”

The waterfall is in the Tijuca National Park, the world’s largest urban rainforest, covering 40 square kilometres smack dab in the middle of the megalopolis of Rio de Janeiro.

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Saturday, Dec. 20, 2025

Banff is a Christmastime delight

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Banff is a Christmastime delight

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Dec. 6, 2025

‘Evergreen Jinglespark.”

That’s Margie’s new name. Banff Gondola’s mountaintop Elf Name Generator (a roulette wheel) decided it.

My name: “Pudding Merrytoes.” I announced, “Just call me Pud!” Staff quipped, “Aside from the name tag, you’ll need paperwork or a current driver’s licence.”

Ascending Banff’s steep Sulphur Mountain in a gondola at Christmastime also means cookie decorating, marshmallow roasting, Santa Claus and craft tables where children studiously fashion gondola-inspired tree ornaments. Plus, find a slightly redundant sign saying “Steep Terrain.” I’ll bet whoever posted that was over the edge.

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Saturday, Dec. 6, 2025

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For a big splurge, The Cape, a boutique hotel tucked into the side of a rocky shoreline, includes an infinity pool with a swim-up bar, saltwater pool and Manta, one of Cabo’s 14 Michelin-starred restaurants.

Los Cabos three ways: from the traditional to positively posh

Shel Zolkewich 6 minute read Preview

Los Cabos three ways: from the traditional to positively posh

Shel Zolkewich 6 minute read Saturday, Nov. 22, 2025

What’s the difference between travelling and vacationing? Some say it comes down to where you choose to lay your head. And in most cases, the right accommodations can elevate your time away from great to glorious. So, if you’re looking to invest a little more in your next Mexican vacation, consider the upscale accommodations Los Cabos has to offer — some that are truly a bargain for a lot of luxury.

Downtown and delightful in San José

Tropicana Los Cabos feels a bit like stepping back into the halcyon days of Mexican vacations, where things were smaller, more intimate and definitely packed with luxury. Seventy rooms cluster around the most serene, blue-tiled pool, with a whirlpool at one end and water fountain at the other. Plenty of loungers are tucked among mature trees and flowering plants, along with a small bar and delightful sculptures by local artists.

Built in 1956, the inn is now a Hilton property, so rooms are perfectly outfitted with all the modern convenience including televisions and coffee makers, while touches of tradition remain, such as tiled floors and showers.

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Saturday, Nov. 22, 2025

The Church of Our Lady of the Rocks stands on a human-made islet in Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor.

Get to know Montenegro

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Preview

Get to know Montenegro

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Saturday, Nov. 8, 2025

With the roar of an engine and spray of the Adriatic Sea, we race toward the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks.

The soundtrack on the speedboat is a bit of Pitbull’s Feel This Moment and a bit of Duffy’s Mercy.

Thus, we ultimately realize speedboat is the most boss way to arrive at church.

That’s why my wife, Kerry, and I signed up for the Boka Bay by Speedboat excursion while the Viking Jupiter cruise ship we’re on is docked in Kotor, Montenegro.

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Saturday, Nov. 8, 2025

Steve MacNaull photos / Free Press
The author with his rental wheels.

DIY Vancouver by bike: Leisurely cycling, striking statues, yummy eats and a trendy hotel

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Preview

DIY Vancouver by bike: Leisurely cycling, striking statues, yummy eats and a trendy hotel

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Saturday, Sep. 13, 2025

Terry Fox waves to me.

Naturally, I wave back.

And then I stop my rental bike in the plaza in front of BC Place Stadium and the BC Sports Hall of Fame because this series of four sculptures of Fox is so striking.

The bronzes by Vancouver artist, designer and novelist Douglas Coupland are a poignant and perfect tribute to a Canadian hero who was born in Winnipeg and raised in Port Coquitlam, British Columbia.

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Saturday, Sep. 13, 2025

Travel Manitoba
The growing sculpture garden at Gallery in the Park in Altona features works by local, national and international artists.

History’s brought to life in Neubergthal

Shel Zolkewich 5 minute read Preview

History’s brought to life in Neubergthal

Shel Zolkewich 5 minute read Saturday, Aug. 9, 2025

The wooden tabletop is worn smooth. I imagine old hands dusting the surface with flour, then gently tipping out heavy bowls of dough to be kneaded into daily bread. Her work begins. She lifts her eyes to see the barn, its tidy row of windows letting in the light. The cattle are lowing, happy to be fed before milking. She hears the quiet conversations of her kin as they go about the first chore of the day. Their work begins, too.

At the Herdsman’s House in Neubergthal, a tiny village near Altona, it’s easy to imagine life in 1880, especially since this is definitely not a look-but-don’t-touch museum. This is one of Manitoba’s most unique overnight accommodation options, where you’ll sleep under hand-stitched quilts and shuffle across hand-painted wooden floors. Wake up to farm eggs, fresh sourdough and locally roasted coffee beans that you’ll grind, by hand.

Herdsman’s House is part of the village of Neubergthal, a national historic site and one of the only remaining single-street Mennonite villages in Manitoba, a remarkably intact combination of private and communal spaces for farming and living.

Here’s our list of how to explore the village and its surroundings.

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Saturday, Aug. 9, 2025

GORD MACKINTOSH / FREE PRESS
Manitoba’s loveliest worst drive.

Gateway to grandeur

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Gateway to grandeur

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Jul. 5, 2025

I nominate Provincial Road 307 as Manitoba’s loveliest worst drive.

Voted repeatedly in CAA surveys as Manitoba’s worst road, PR 307 is nonetheless the province’s most adventure-packed route for overnighters and energetic day-trippers. Let’s give 307 some loving. And more repairs.

About an hour outside Winnipeg at Whitemouth Falls, I watched teens hop onto rocks between tumbling cascades. I’d never do that — except for a photo. Their dad then tiptoed across a waterfall. His thirteen-year-old daughter yelled, “If you die, I want your truck!” That sure motivated him.

Three pelicans chose a cascade to watch for hapless fish. I waited for action with my camera. Pelicans are more patient than me.

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Saturday, Jul. 5, 2025

photos by Gord Mackintosh / Free Press
Even perfect sunrises don’t awaken the Sleeping Giant.

Discover Thunder Bay’s good nature, unique culture

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Discover Thunder Bay’s good nature, unique culture

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Jun. 7, 2025

Peering out our Thunder Bay waterfront hotel window, I exclaimed, “There’s a big guy sleeping out here! No. Maybe he’s dead!”

Margie rushed to see, imploring “Where?”

I pointed to Lake Superior’s famous landform — The Sleeping Giant.

“I fell for that!?” she growled.

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Saturday, Jun. 7, 2025

Fairmont photo
Steel yourself for a chilly plunge into Lac Beauvert, adjacent to Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, where a guide will lead you through breathing techniques and explain in detail how you’ll feel during the icy dip.

Jaw-dropping views of Rockies just the start of a visit to Jasper National Park

Katrina Clarke 7 minute read Preview

Jaw-dropping views of Rockies just the start of a visit to Jasper National Park

Katrina Clarke 7 minute read Saturday, May. 10, 2025

JASPER, ALTA. — Dipping my toes into an icy glacier-fed lake for a “cold plunge” is not what I would call “relaxing.” But taking in my surroundings — a 360-degree view of the Rocky Mountains, luxurious log cabins circling the edge of the lake, elk in the distance and a hot tub and outdoor pool behind me — I sink in up to my shoulders and take deep breaths. This isn’t so bad!

This was just one of the many memorable experiences I had during a recent week in Jasper at the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Located a four-hour drive west of Edmonton (17 hours if you’re driving from Winnipeg or 32 if you take the train, which we did), Jasper Park Lodge is the perfect retreat for people seeking adventure outdoors and relaxation indoors.

Nestled amid snow-covered mountains with sharp grey peaks, in a dark-sky preserve where elk meander through trails in lodgepole pine forests, its high-end cabins have offered respite to everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Queen Elizabeth. The main lodge makes you feel both in awe and at home with rich wood beams, a giant central fireplace and those stunning mountain views.

This was my second trip to the mountain resort. I was grateful to visit again, especially in the wake of last summer’s historic wildfire throughout Jasper National Park.

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Saturday, May. 10, 2025

Katrina Clarke / Free Press
A view of Jasper National Park and its townsite in March 2025.

Jasper bouncing back after historic wildfire

Katrina Clarke 6 minute read Preview

Jasper bouncing back after historic wildfire

Katrina Clarke 6 minute read Saturday, May. 10, 2025

JASPER, ALTA. — After last summer’s devastating wildfire, Jasper is on the road to recovery. For locals, that recovery is ongoing but for businesses and the local economy at large, it means welcoming outsiders back, now.

It’s a delicate dance.

“We’re in this together,” read posters around town put up by the Municipality of Jasper.

The posters address both Jasper residents and visitors. They acknowledge Jasperites’ grief, loss and complex emotions, and note visitors may be experiencing these same feelings. To visitors, the message is “welcome back,” but the municipality urges people not to fixate on what was lost but rather to ask locals what they love about their home.

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Saturday, May. 10, 2025

Photos by Steve MacNaull / Free Press
AmaWaterways’ 148-passenger AmaCello craft cruises the Saône River between the French cities of Dijon and Lyon.

Savour the flavours of Burgundy and Lyon on a French river cruise

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Preview

Savour the flavours of Burgundy and Lyon on a French river cruise

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Saturday, May. 3, 2025

Accordion music serenades us on through Dijon’s triumphal gate.

As my wife, Kerry, and I stroll through Darcy Square toward William Gate (the French city’s equivalent of Paris’s famous Arc de Triomphe) an old man just happens to be sitting there on a folding chair playing the squeezebox — so fortuitous and quintessentially French.

We feel special and enchanted, although there are hundreds of other people milling around Darcy Square and passing through the arch in both directions.

The old busker was nonplussed — he just wanted passersby to toss a euro or two in the upturned hat at his feet. I contributed two euros and asked him, holding up my iPhone, if I could take a photo. He probably only partially understood, shrugged and then I snapped a picture of him not exactly smiling.

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Saturday, May. 3, 2025

April 17, 2026

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