Travel – Winnipeg Free Press

Fairmont Copacabana photo
The infinity pool at the Fairmont Copacabana flows toward the beach and Atlantic Ocean.

Rio’s urban rainforest

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Saturday, Dec. 20, 2025

Just like the Baroness d’Escragnolle, my wife is luxuriating in the cascade of a waterfall.

Kerry raises her face to the cool tumble of water and flicks her hair, much like the 19th century aristocrat must have.

This re-creation of nobility is happening at Cascata de Baronesa, which means in Portuguese, “Baroness Waterfall.”

The waterfall is in the Tijuca National Park, the world’s largest urban rainforest, covering 40 square kilometres smack dab in the middle of the megalopolis of Rio de Janeiro.

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Banff is a Christmastime delight

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Banff is a Christmastime delight

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Dec. 6, 2025

‘Evergreen Jinglespark.”

That’s Margie’s new name. Banff Gondola’s mountaintop Elf Name Generator (a roulette wheel) decided it.

My name: “Pudding Merrytoes.” I announced, “Just call me Pud!” Staff quipped, “Aside from the name tag, you’ll need paperwork or a current driver’s licence.”

Ascending Banff’s steep Sulphur Mountain in a gondola at Christmastime also means cookie decorating, marshmallow roasting, Santa Claus and craft tables where children studiously fashion gondola-inspired tree ornaments. Plus, find a slightly redundant sign saying “Steep Terrain.” I’ll bet whoever posted that was over the edge.

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Saturday, Dec. 6, 2025

Los Cabos three ways: from the traditional to positively posh

Shel Zolkewich 7 minute read Preview

Los Cabos three ways: from the traditional to positively posh

Shel Zolkewich 7 minute read Saturday, Nov. 22, 2025

What’s the difference between travelling and vacationing? Some say it comes down to where you choose to lay your head. And in most cases, the right accommodations can elevate your time away from great to glorious. So, if you’re looking to invest a little more in your next Mexican vacation, consider the upscale accommodations Los Cabos has to offer — some that are truly a bargain for a lot of luxury.

Downtown and delightful in San José

Tropicana Los Cabos feels a bit like stepping back into the halcyon days of Mexican vacations, where things were smaller, more intimate and definitely packed with luxury. Seventy rooms cluster around the most serene, blue-tiled pool, with a whirlpool at one end and water fountain at the other. Plenty of loungers are tucked among mature trees and flowering plants, along with a small bar and delightful sculptures by local artists.

Built in 1956, the inn is now a Hilton property, so rooms are perfectly outfitted with all the modern convenience including televisions and coffee makers, while touches of tradition remain, such as tiled floors and showers.

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Saturday, Nov. 22, 2025

Supplied
For a big splurge, The Cape, a boutique hotel tucked into the side of a rocky shoreline, includes an infinity pool with a swim-up bar, saltwater pool and Manta, one of Cabo’s 14 Michelin-starred restaurants.

Get to know Montenegro

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Preview

Get to know Montenegro

Steve MacNaull 5 minute read Saturday, Nov. 8, 2025

With the roar of an engine and spray of the Adriatic Sea, we race toward the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks.

The soundtrack on the speedboat is a bit of Pitbull’s Feel This Moment and a bit of Duffy’s Mercy.

Thus, we ultimately realize speedboat is the most boss way to arrive at church.

That’s why my wife, Kerry, and I signed up for the Boka Bay by Speedboat excursion while the Viking Jupiter cruise ship we’re on is docked in Kotor, Montenegro.

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Saturday, Nov. 8, 2025

The Church of Our Lady of the Rocks stands on a human-made islet in Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor.

DIY Vancouver by bike: Leisurely cycling, striking statues, yummy eats and a trendy hotel

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Preview

DIY Vancouver by bike: Leisurely cycling, striking statues, yummy eats and a trendy hotel

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Saturday, Sep. 13, 2025

Terry Fox waves to me.

Naturally, I wave back.

And then I stop my rental bike in the plaza in front of BC Place Stadium and the BC Sports Hall of Fame because this series of four sculptures of Fox is so striking.

The bronzes by Vancouver artist, designer and novelist Douglas Coupland are a poignant and perfect tribute to a Canadian hero who was born in Winnipeg and raised in Port Coquitlam, British Columbia.

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Saturday, Sep. 13, 2025

Steve MacNaull photos / Free Press
The author with his rental wheels.

History’s brought to life in Neubergthal

Shel Zolkewich 5 minute read Preview

History’s brought to life in Neubergthal

Shel Zolkewich 5 minute read Saturday, Aug. 9, 2025

The wooden tabletop is worn smooth. I imagine old hands dusting the surface with flour, then gently tipping out heavy bowls of dough to be kneaded into daily bread. Her work begins. She lifts her eyes to see the barn, its tidy row of windows letting in the light. The cattle are lowing, happy to be fed before milking. She hears the quiet conversations of her kin as they go about the first chore of the day. Their work begins, too.

At the Herdsman’s House in Neubergthal, a tiny village near Altona, it’s easy to imagine life in 1880, especially since this is definitely not a look-but-don’t-touch museum. This is one of Manitoba’s most unique overnight accommodation options, where you’ll sleep under hand-stitched quilts and shuffle across hand-painted wooden floors. Wake up to farm eggs, fresh sourdough and locally roasted coffee beans that you’ll grind, by hand.

Herdsman’s House is part of the village of Neubergthal, a national historic site and one of the only remaining single-street Mennonite villages in Manitoba, a remarkably intact combination of private and communal spaces for farming and living.

Here’s our list of how to explore the village and its surroundings.

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Saturday, Aug. 9, 2025

Travel Manitoba
The growing sculpture garden at Gallery in the Park in Altona features works by local, national and international artists.

Gateway to grandeur

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Gateway to grandeur

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Jul. 5, 2025

I nominate Provincial Road 307 as Manitoba’s loveliest worst drive.

Voted repeatedly in CAA surveys as Manitoba’s worst road, PR 307 is nonetheless the province’s most adventure-packed route for overnighters and energetic day-trippers. Let’s give 307 some loving. And more repairs.

About an hour outside Winnipeg at Whitemouth Falls, I watched teens hop onto rocks between tumbling cascades. I’d never do that — except for a photo. Their dad then tiptoed across a waterfall. His thirteen-year-old daughter yelled, “If you die, I want your truck!” That sure motivated him.

Three pelicans chose a cascade to watch for hapless fish. I waited for action with my camera. Pelicans are more patient than me.

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Saturday, Jul. 5, 2025

GORD MACKINTOSH / FREE PRESS
Manitoba’s loveliest worst drive.

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Discover Thunder Bay’s good nature, unique culture

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Discover Thunder Bay’s good nature, unique culture

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Jun. 7, 2025

Peering out our Thunder Bay waterfront hotel window, I exclaimed, “There’s a big guy sleeping out here! No. Maybe he’s dead!”

Margie rushed to see, imploring “Where?”

I pointed to Lake Superior’s famous landform — The Sleeping Giant.

“I fell for that!?” she growled.

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Saturday, Jun. 7, 2025

photos by Gord Mackintosh / Free Press
Even perfect sunrises don’t awaken the Sleeping Giant.

Jaw-dropping views of Rockies just the start of a visit to Jasper National Park

Katrina Clarke 7 minute read Preview

Jaw-dropping views of Rockies just the start of a visit to Jasper National Park

Katrina Clarke 7 minute read Saturday, May. 10, 2025

JASPER, ALTA. — Dipping my toes into an icy glacier-fed lake for a “cold plunge” is not what I would call “relaxing.” But taking in my surroundings — a 360-degree view of the Rocky Mountains, luxurious log cabins circling the edge of the lake, elk in the distance and a hot tub and outdoor pool behind me — I sink in up to my shoulders and take deep breaths. This isn’t so bad!

This was just one of the many memorable experiences I had during a recent week in Jasper at the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Located a four-hour drive west of Edmonton (17 hours if you’re driving from Winnipeg or 32 if you take the train, which we did), Jasper Park Lodge is the perfect retreat for people seeking adventure outdoors and relaxation indoors.

Nestled amid snow-covered mountains with sharp grey peaks, in a dark-sky preserve where elk meander through trails in lodgepole pine forests, its high-end cabins have offered respite to everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Queen Elizabeth. The main lodge makes you feel both in awe and at home with rich wood beams, a giant central fireplace and those stunning mountain views.

This was my second trip to the mountain resort. I was grateful to visit again, especially in the wake of last summer’s historic wildfire throughout Jasper National Park.

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Saturday, May. 10, 2025

Fairmont photo
Steel yourself for a chilly plunge into Lac Beauvert, adjacent to Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, where a guide will lead you through breathing techniques and explain in detail how you’ll feel during the icy dip.

Jasper bouncing back after historic wildfire

Katrina Clarke 6 minute read Preview

Jasper bouncing back after historic wildfire

Katrina Clarke 6 minute read Saturday, May. 10, 2025

JASPER, ALTA. — After last summer’s devastating wildfire, Jasper is on the road to recovery. For locals, that recovery is ongoing but for businesses and the local economy at large, it means welcoming outsiders back, now.

It’s a delicate dance.

“We’re in this together,” read posters around town put up by the Municipality of Jasper.

The posters address both Jasper residents and visitors. They acknowledge Jasperites’ grief, loss and complex emotions, and note visitors may be experiencing these same feelings. To visitors, the message is “welcome back,” but the municipality urges people not to fixate on what was lost but rather to ask locals what they love about their home.

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Saturday, May. 10, 2025

Katrina Clarke / Free Press
A view of Jasper National Park and its townsite in March 2025.

Canine companions help heighten the spirit of curiosity

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

Canine companions help heighten the spirit of curiosity

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, May. 3, 2025

Preparing to travel, I opened my luggage and swivelled for pyjamas. Turning back, the suitcase was packed — with Pirate, our Jack Russell Terrier. When taking out the luggage, Pirate stormed the door, the gate and, at the vehicle, just couldn’t resist repeatedly bouncing up off the ground — boing-de-boing-de-boing.

Whether they’re born travellers or just stalking food-providers, eager mutts like Pirate exhilarate road trips. I offer some tales and tips.

As a frenzied life force, Pirate increasingly insisted he serve as our co-pilot. Attentively perched on the vehicle’s console, he nonetheless proved unreliable. Turn-signal clicks, changes to speed and road surface or roadside dogs and cats deranged him and he filled the car with himself. White hairs fused to our clothes so folks across the street could see we were dog people. Ensure those handy lint rollers are in handy places.

We learned that Pirate’s quiet stares meant quick stops. And we learned to put poo bags in cup holders, purses, pouches and pockets. Likewise, any empty bags.

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Saturday, May. 3, 2025

Margaret Mackintosh / Free Press
Gord Mackintosh and his trusted co-pilot Pirate cruise along a calm stretch of Highway 2 in southwestern Manitoba.

Savour the flavours of Burgundy and Lyon on a French river cruise

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Preview

Savour the flavours of Burgundy and Lyon on a French river cruise

Steve MacNaull 6 minute read Saturday, May. 3, 2025

Accordion music serenades us on through Dijon’s triumphal gate.

As my wife, Kerry, and I stroll through Darcy Square toward William Gate (the French city’s equivalent of Paris’s famous Arc de Triomphe) an old man just happens to be sitting there on a folding chair playing the squeezebox — so fortuitous and quintessentially French.

We feel special and enchanted, although there are hundreds of other people milling around Darcy Square and passing through the arch in both directions.

The old busker was nonplussed — he just wanted passersby to toss a euro or two in the upturned hat at his feet. I contributed two euros and asked him, holding up my iPhone, if I could take a photo. He probably only partially understood, shrugged and then I snapped a picture of him not exactly smiling.

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Saturday, May. 3, 2025

Photos by Steve MacNaull / Free Press
AmaWaterways’ 148-passenger AmaCello craft cruises the Saône River between the French cities of Dijon and Lyon.

A new perspective on our province’s prolific plumage

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Preview

A new perspective on our province’s prolific plumage

Gord Mackintosh 6 minute read Saturday, Apr. 5, 2025

Welcome, buffleheads! Greetings, bobolinks!

Manitoba hosts bird species galore. Behold dark-eyed juncos, marbled godwits, goofy-gaited screw-eyed wingnuts.

Maybe I made up that last one.

Joining birders at FortWhyte Alive to count our feathered friends, I asked what to do. They explained, “Go like this: one, two, three….”

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Saturday, Apr. 5, 2025

GORD MACKINTOSH / FREE PRESS
Margie Mackintosh gets acquainted with a Cedar Bog Trail chickadee.

Savouring three days in Montreal

Shel Zolkewich 7 minute read Preview

Savouring three days in Montreal

Shel Zolkewich 7 minute read Saturday, Mar. 29, 2025

Let’s all agree that three days isn’t nearly enough time to experience all that Montreal has to offer. But like a restaurant with a stellar menu, a short visit is enough for a sampling, and there’s no doubt you’ll be planning your next visit very soon. Consider this your “tasting menu” of Canada’s second largest city, one that brings history, culture, art and food together like no other.

Day 1

Check in to the chic and convenient Humaniti Hotel in downtown Montreal that offers everything you need and nothing you don’t. The pet-friendly hotel has an onsite spa and fitness centre, and also houses Restaurant h3 that keeps maple syrup on the table for breakfast. Come summer, the rooftop pool opens with spectacular views of the surrounding city.

For dinner, take a walk to Le 409 for modern Indian on Rue McGill. It’s a brasserie-style room with big windows overlooking the street and cosy spots in back, anchored by a large bar. Start with vegetables and paneer grilled in a tandoor oven, then move on to an assortment of traditional dishes like chana masala, korma and the shrimp vindaloo (easily the fieriest Indian dish I’ve ever had, and so delicious). The cocktail menu includes Le Twist d’Oliver with tequila, Campari, lime and grapefruit — a bright antidote to those spices.

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Saturday, Mar. 29, 2025

SHEL ZOLKEWICH / FREE PRESS
Canada’s second largest city brings history, culture, art and food together like no other.

Snowbird detour

Tim Duprey 8 minute read Preview

Snowbird detour

Tim Duprey 8 minute read Saturday, Mar. 22, 2025

Canadian snowbirds rethinking their usual winter destinations in the United States in light of the trade war launched by the Trump administration may want to consider looking a bit further south, to Mexico.

Long stays in the U.S. can take many forms and so can extended stays in Mexico. Beach-access options exist all along Mexico’s east and west coasts. There are houses and condominiums in towns and cities from Cancún to Tulum and from Cabo to Escondido available for purchase or rent. Just as in the U.S., the nearer you are to the beach, the more you will pay.

Not all Canadian snowbirds winter in beach communities in the U.S. and not all great long-stay options in Mexico are in coastal communities. I’d like to tell you about some of my favourite non-beach locales in the Latin American nation. You can easily explore these spots through popular apps and services like Airbnb, Booking.com and Expedia, or search for locally based real-estate accommodation services.

But first, an answer to a question I often hear from people who have not been to the country: Is Mexico safe? People regularly hear stories of Mexican drug cartels and their turf wars and killings. These things do happen, but as a Mexican acquaintance once told me, “If you don’t buy drugs, don’t sell drugs and don’t do drugs, you have nothing to worry about.”

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Saturday, Mar. 22, 2025

Dario Lopez-Mills / The Associated Press Files
The picturesque colonial city of Guanajuato features underground passageways and narrow winding streets that resemble medieval Europe.

Staycation bonanza

Nicole Buffie 5 minute read Preview

Staycation bonanza

Nicole Buffie 5 minute read Friday, Mar. 14, 2025

George Hartlen is busy stocking shelves with souvenirs and planning recreational programs at the Friends of Riding Mountain gift shop and equipment rental, in anticipation of a hectic summer.

“We’ve already seen a shift happening in travel here and we expect it to continue,” Hartlen said Friday.

Manitoba travel destinations are gearing up for a busier-than-usual spring and summer season thanks to the trade war sparked by the Trump administration, which appears to be motivating Canadians to travel in their own country as opposed to heading to the U.S.

Heading into spring, Hartlen says travellers and campers are exploring Manitoba’s backyard over heading to warmer destinations they would normally choose this time of year.

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Friday, Mar. 14, 2025

December 24, 2025

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