A little taste of Montreal

Let’s all agree that three days isn’t nearly enough time to experience all that Montreal has to offer. But like a restaurant with a stellar menu, a short visit is enough for a sampling, and there’s no doubt you’ll be planning your next visit very soon. Consider this your “tasting menu” of Canada’s second largest city, one that brings history, culture, art and food together like no other.

Day 1

Check in to the chic and convenient Humaniti Hotel in downtown Montreal that offers everything you need and nothing you don’t. The pet-friendly hotel has an onsite spa and fitness centre, and also houses Restaurant h3 that keeps maple syrup on the table for breakfast. Come summer, the rooftop pool opens with spectacular views of the surrounding city.

For dinner, take a walk to Le 409 for modern Indian on Rue McGill. It’s a brasserie-style room with big windows overlooking the street and cosy spots in back, anchored by a large bar. Start with vegetables and paneer grilled in a tandoor oven, then move on to an assortment of traditional dishes like chana masala, korma and the shrimp vindaloo (easily the fieriest Indian dish I’ve ever had, and so delicious). The cocktail menu includes Le Twist d’Oliver with tequila, Campari, lime and grapefruit — a bright antidote to those spices.

You’ll need to do a little sleuthing to find The Coldroom, easily one of Old Montreal’s best speakeasies. Down the noisy metal staircase, you’ll find a room that’s not cold at all, featuring innovative cocktails like the Shotgun Wedding featuring beetroot or the Cold Fashion with Wild Turkey and butter.

Day 2

Grab coffee and a pastry from Boulangerie Ange, connected to the Humaniti, but go easy — you have a big food day ahead. Make your way to Marché Jean-Talon, where you’ll find butchers, bakers, candlestick makers and plenty more in this indoor/outdoor market space that’s been in operation since 1933. Le Marché des Saveurs du Québec has made it easy to pick some favourites with over 400 Quebec products in one shop. Among the standouts is the cheese counter that offers samples of artisanal cheeses from all around the province. Next pop over to Joe la Croûte artisanal bakery for their savoury Le Mythique bread stuffed with olives and cheese or a Viennoiserie — take your pick from chocolate and almond or a traditional croissant.

Bota Bota, spa-sur-l’eau is Old Montreal’s semi-floating spa. Its enviable location in the Old Port offers excellent city skyline views from their upper-level hot tubs. It’s a remarkable transformation of a boat that was once a ferry and then hosted theatre shows. The spa features a restaurant and offers massages, but the real draw is the water circuit. Start with heat in one of the many saunas and spas on the boat or in the newer garden area, then a very quick cooldown in the cold baths or showers, followed by relaxation in daybeds, hammocks, loungers or bean bags.

While you’re there, get an up-close view of Habitat 67, the residential complex — and architectural landmark — built for Expo 67. Constructed out of prefabricated concrete forms arranged in varying combinations reaching up to a height of 12 storeys, the residential units are connected to landscaped garden terraces on many levels. Guided tours begin in the spring for a peek into one of the residential units and to see its footbridges, pedestrian streets and suspended terraces.

There’s a little something for everyone at Time Out Market Montreal. The bustling culinary space inside Eaton Centre is packed with food and drink ranging from Caribbean curries and Spanish tapas to sushi and shrimp cocktails. Go for an early dinner and cruise around to pick up a stellar smash burger from Chez Simon or smoked ribs from American BBQ. There are plenty of drink options too, plus entertainment and occasional cooking classes in the skylit space.

Montreal’s Notre-Dame Basilica is home to AURA, an immersive light experience with scenes projected onto the basilica’s walls, vault and altarpiece. It’s a unique and beautiful way to see the interior of Montreal’s mother church, completed in 1829 and Canada’s first example of Gothic Revival architecture.

Day 3

Brunch at Bar George is the epitome of posh, but without the attitude. Housed inside the former mansion of Sir George Stephen, it’s all about dark wood, stained glass and gold accents. The menu lives up to the expected standards too, with a lobster omelette, black pudding Benedict and the baba au rum with its tabletop fire show and vanilla Chantilly-cream finish.

Do a deep dive into culture with a visit to the McCord Stewart Museum, Montreal’s home for collections featuring dress, fashion, Indigenous culture, photography and documentary art. On now is Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, a temporary exhibit showcasing the extravagant costume ball soirées of a century-and-a-half ago. Over 40 jaw-dropping original outfits are on display along with artifacts from the era.

The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts is the place for Québécois and Canadian art with a collection of more than 500 pieces spanning six floors. It’s best to choose one collection for each visit since the museum is truly vast. Take your pick of art styles including Inuit, modern-international and contemporary, and don’t forget the outdoor sculpture garden. For the best souvenir, visit the museum’s boutique with its selection of textile work, jewelry and décor from Quebec artists.

Arguably saving the best for last, go old-school in Montreal with visits to both Fairmount Bagel and St-Viateur Bagel for hand-made, chewy goodness to take home by the dozen. (Their original locations are located just blocks apart in the city’s Plateau/Mile End neighbourhoods.) Let your tastebuds decide who makes a better bagel.

Then stroll over to Schwartz’s Deli for one of Canada’s most famous meals. Order a Montreal smoked-meat sandwich (medium-fat), fries, half pickle, coleslaw and black cherry soda as you sit hip-to-hip with strangers at the communal tables. You won’t need dessert.

shel@shelzolkewich.com