Iconic retreat

JASPER, ALTA. — Dipping my toes into an icy glacier-fed lake for a “cold plunge” is not what I would call “relaxing.” But taking in my surroundings — a 360-degree view of the Rocky Mountains, luxurious log cabins circling the edge of the lake, elk in the distance and a hot tub and outdoor pool behind me — I sink in up to my shoulders and take deep breaths. This isn’t so bad!

This was just one of the many memorable experiences I had during a recent week in Jasper at the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Located a four-hour drive west of Edmonton (17 hours if you’re driving from Winnipeg or 32 if you take the train, which we did), Jasper Park Lodge is the perfect retreat for people seeking adventure outdoors and relaxation indoors.

Nestled amid snow-covered mountains with sharp grey peaks, in a dark-sky preserve where elk meander through trails in lodgepole pine forests, its high-end cabins have offered respite to everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Queen Elizabeth. The main lodge makes you feel both in awe and at home with rich wood beams, a giant central fireplace and those stunning mountain views.

This was my second trip to the mountain resort. I was grateful to visit again, especially in the wake of last summer’s historic wildfire throughout Jasper National Park.

The Fairmont resort sustained damage in the blaze, including the loss of a few cabins and buildings, but the bulk of the property remained untouched, thanks to brave fire fighters who battled the growing fire. Today, the area does look different — mountainsides once covered in evergreens are now sparse, but Jasper Park Lodge remains intact and as beautiful as ever. Wildflowers are expected to carpet the forest floor this summer and the Fairmont itself is soon to complete extensive interior renovations.

If you can, now is the time to visit.

WHAT TO DO

Book a signature cabin

I was lucky enough to spend a few days in one of Jasper Park Lodge’s signature cabins. The Athabasca Cabin had a cosy wood-burning fireplace and when we arrived, there was a complimentary bottle of wine, fruit and cheese. The cabins range in size but most can easily accommodate a family — or even an extended family in those with multiple rooms. Watch out for deals — the week I visited, the resort was offering 50 per cent off cabin prices.

Visit the spa

Treat yourself to a spa day. My 30-minute head, neck and shoulder massage was the best I’ve ever received. My massage therapist, Brooke, was so thorough and found knots in my neck in muscles I didn’t even know existed.

Relaxing in the central spa room with a tea post-massage was so peaceful.

Go for a walk or hike

There are plenty of trails on Jasper Park Lodge’s 700-acre property. Keep an eye out for herds of elk and be sure to give them space. We rented a car and did a few incredible hikes off the property including around Patricia Lake, located less than a 20-minute drive away.

Hang out in the lounge

Sink into a comfy leather chair and spend an afternoon sipping cocktails and eating charcuterie by the giant fireplace in the Emerald Lounge, located in the main lodge. I recommend the Emerald Cherry Sour and the Maple Old Fashioned. The views of Lac Beauvert and the Rocky Mountains out the floor-to-ceiling windows are jaw-dropping.

Outdoor hot tub, pool and steam

The Fairmont’s outdoor hot tub and heated pool overlook Lac Beauvert and have, again, those amazing Rocky Mountain views. You can even see parts of the Marmot Basin mountain ski resort in the distance. The outdoor pool is a hit with families but if you catch a quiet moment, it’s perfect for a peaceful float too. Indoors, the sauna and eucalyptus steam room in the change rooms are definitely worth making time for.

Dine in

Head to the Great Hall for hearty and unique Canadian fare and drinks. I had a market price trout there that I’m still thinking about, and same goes for the virgin Caesar complete with a giant slice of beef jerky. Downstairs at Orso Trattoria is where Jasper Park Lodge dining shines. The bison striploin with bone marrow is mouthwatering.

Hang out with your dog

One of the things I love most about Jasper Park Lodge is the dogs. The resort is pet-friendly, with “canine ambassadors” greeting guests at the lodge entrance, tables in the lodge specifically reserved for families who want to eat with Fido at their side, dog beds available for rooms and even a special doggy menu.

Stargaze and visit the planetarium

Jasper is located in a dark-sky preserve, meaning there’s a spectacular display of stars at night. You can also sign up for a planetarium experience, where astronomy experts will teach you about constellations in an outdoor dome theatre. You can gaze at planets through giant telescopes and even hold a piece of Mars.

Shuttle for a ski day

Catch the shuttle from Jasper Park Lodge to Marmot Basin ski resort, located a 30-minute drive away. The ski resort has jaw-dropping views of the Rockies and is one of the least crowded mountains I’ve ever been to. I didn’t wait in a single line and every chairlift ride was solo.

Go golfing

I visited in the spring so wasn’t able to hit the links, but the 18-hole lakeside golf course looked beautiful, even covered with snow. I’m told there are challenging obstacles on this course, including water hazards and occasional wildlife. I unintentionally got within a few metres of a large elk when she blocked my path while out for a walk.

Glacial plunge into Lac Beauvert

It may sound intimidating, but I highly recommend this cold plunge. Before the dip, a guide will lead you through breathing techniques and explain in detail how you’ll feel during the plunge. When I visited, the lake was still covered in ice so staff cut a hole at the edge of the lake. I managed to stay in for four minutes 30 seconds. Brr!

Katrina Clarke was provided a promotional stay at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge.

katrina.clarke@winnipegfreepress.com