Find the perfect wine to grace your holiday dinner table

Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 10/12/2022 (1026 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Whether you’re stuffing a turkey, glazing a ham or ordering takeout this holiday season, nothing finishes off that perfectly planned festive feast quite like the right bottle of wine. Here are 10 tipples I’ve recently tried that drink well on their own, but would also complement all manner of yuletide eats…

The Einig-Zenzen 2021 Apollo Falte Riesling (Rheinhessen, Germany — $16.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is new to the province. A mainly dry, organic German Riesling, it brings lemon-lime, green apple, herbal and chalky aromas. It’s light-bodied, with the tart lemon-lime and green apple flavours leading the charge, just a whisper of sweetness that brings a splash of peach, some great acidity running right through and a well-balanced, almost-chalky finish. Fresh, refreshing and will please almost any palate. 4/5

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For something light and bone dry, the Casas del Bosque 2020 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley, Chile — $15.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is worth a look. Pale straw in colour, this Chilean Sauvignon Blanc brims with bright grapefruit, gooseberry, green apple and herbal notes aromatically. It’s light-bodied, racy and vibrant, with zippy acidity delivering all those citrus and gooseberry flavours with verve, while the green/herbal/bell pepper notes never intrude. 3.5/5

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For more adventurous types, the Kutjevo 2018 Maximo Oro (Slavonija, Croatia — around $22, private wine stores) is a surefire winner. A blend of Grasevina and Chardonnay grapes, this Croatian white is deep gold in colour, with honeycomb, lanolin, floral, ripe red apple and apricot aromas. It’s dry, medium-bodied and viscous, with intense red apple, apricot, tropical fruit and honeyed flavours on the palate that are complex and rich — particularly for the price. Available at the Pourium and Calabria Market. 4/5

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A Chardonnay is often a welcome addition to the holiday dinner table, particularly when it’s as tasty as the Octopoda Wines 2020 Chardonnay (Sonoma County/Russian River Valley, Calif. — around $37, Jones & Company). Pale gold in colour, the Octopoda brings ripe red apple, pear and peach aromas, hints of tropical fruit and warm vanilla, and spice. It’s medium-plus-bodied and rich, with the oak influence (18 months in barrels) providing texture and vanilla notes with the ripe tree fruit and pineapple flavours. Things finish off with some warmth on the 14.5 per cent finish. 4/5

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The Mission Hill 2020 Five Vineyards Rosé (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $15.99, Liquor Marts and beyond), is a well-priced pink wine that would suit all manner of meals. A Merlot-Cabernet Franc-Shiraz blend, it delivers ripe strawberry, raspberry candy, watermelon and red apple aromas. It’s mainly dry and light-bodied, with more depth to the red berry flavours than, say, a French rosé from Provence — plus it would work particularly well with ham or pork loin. 3/5

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There’s some Georges Duboeuf 2022 Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé kicking around at Liquor Marts, but a better bang for your buck from the French producer is the Georges Duboeuf 2020 Syrah rosé (Pays D’Oc, France — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond). Medium pink in colour, aromatically it delivers floral, strawberry candy, watermelon and cantaloupe aromas. There’s just the slightest bit of sweetness to the light-plus-bodied palate, with the red berry notes coming with an almost-chalky note adding a touch of grip. 3.5/5

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Speaking of Beaujolais Nouveau, the 2022 reds have finally landed at private wine stores, and having tried both the Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau (various private stores) and Domaine de Bel Avenir (from De Nardi Wines), I can once again safely say they’re fun, fresh and fruity, and would make a great addition to your Christmas dinner.

Now, if you tend to find Beaujolais Nouveau a bit simple (and overpriced, particularly this year), the Sarl Joubert 2019 Vielle Vignes Fleurie (Beaujolais, France — around $35, Ellement Wine + Spirits) shows how the Gamay grape can be made into something far more complex. Lovely ripe plum and violet notes emerge aromatically from this single-commune, unfiltered red, along with bread dough, blueberry and spice components. Light-plus-bodied and dry, its light tannins and acidity add verve to the berry flavours, while the doughy note lingers with the subtle citrus flavours. Drink now. 4/5

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Sticking with light but complex reds, the Laurent Dufouleur 2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France — around $39, Kenaston Wine Market) delivers earth, mushroom, cherry, plum and subtle vegetal notes on the nose — just what you’d expect from Old World Pinot Noir. It’s light-plus-bodied and dry, bringing red berry flavours on the palate with some white pepper and herbal flavours, light tannins and a medium-length finish. Drink now or set aside for 18-24 months. Bonus: as of writing this, the Dufouleur is on sale for $29.99. 4.5/5

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For something slightly heavier, the Bartier Bros. 2020 Cabernet Franc (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $29.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) brings brilliant blackberry, violet, dark chocolate and subtle bell pepper notes, aromatically. This Okanagan Valley Cab Franc is dry, medium-plus-bodied and offers dark berry and chocolate/mocha notes along with peppery spice, a hint of cherry, very modest bell pepper notes and a long but balanced finished. Drinkable now but could age for three to five years — very good stuff. 4/5

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If a full-bodied, robust red is what you’re after for your holiday meal, there are few better for the price in our market than the Chateau Pesquié 2020 Terrasses (Ventoux, France — $20.99, Liquor Marts and beyond). A 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah from France’s Rhône Valley, the Terrasses brings deep plum, black cherry, iron, cracked pepper and hints of spice aromatically. It’s dense and full-bodied, with great concentration of dark fruit, a delicious savoury note that works with the pepper and iron notes, medium tannins that provide good grip and a not-too-warm finish at 14 per cent alcohol. It may not be the ideal turkey wine, but it’s an exceptional value; drink or hold for two to four years. 4.5/5

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Twitter: @bensigurdson