The many styles and flavours of Pinot Noir

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This article was published 19/11/2022 (1443 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

One of the first wines I tackled when I first started writing Uncorked 17 (!) years ago was Pinot Noir. It shouldn’t come as much of a surprise; among wine geeks it tends to be a favourite grape to grapple with. A famously fickle grape to grow, Pinot Noir is made in a wide range of styles in all corners of the globe (including here in Canada) and, when done well, can produce profound wines of exceptional complexity.

More than most wine grapes, red or white, Pinot Noir’s styles run from fruit-forward and juicy in warmer, New World winemaking regions to subtle, earthy and complex in Old World examples. It’s also used in making rosé in certain parts of the world, and is a key grape in producing some of the world’s best sparkling wines, including from France’s Champagne region.

Much of the variation in styles of Pinot Noir depends on climate. The grape does particularly well in cooler to moderate wine-growing regions; its thinner skin not only results in wines that are lighter in colour, but it also makes the grape more susceptible to extreme heat, frost and excess direct sunlight. It’s one of the reasons Pinot Noir has been dubbed the “heartbreak grape” by those in the industry — when things go wrong growing Pinot Noir, they go horribly wrong, and no amount of oak aging or other tricks in the winery can typically solve the problem.

When things go right, however, Pinot Noir generally delivers beautiful red berry and cherry flavours with low tannins and moderate acidity, with secondary flavours often described as earthy, mushroomy or even reminiscent of forest floor (whatever that tastes like).

Pinot Noir first came to global prominence in wines from France’s Burgundy region, where many top-tier, small-batch reds made from the grape are often sourced from just a few rows of vines in a particular vineyard, and which can cost hundreds of dollars. A wine from a neighbouring vineyard, made in much the same way, can bring wildly different flavour profiles (albeit with a similarly prohibitive price tag).

On the other end of the flavour spectrum are the increasingly popular, fruit-driven examples of Pinot Noir coming from California, particularly regions such as Sonoma County and Santa Lucia Highlands. In warmer vintages, examples from the Golden State tend to be darker in colour, sometimes bringing highly extracted fruit flavours and more notable oak-barrel aging that sometimes sees the resulting wine bordering on medicinal (think cherry cough syrup flavours) and finishing with higher alcohol levels.

In between those two extremes is a plethora of Pinot Noir that’s both delicious and relatively easy on the pocketbook. Over the last 17 years the number of wines made from Pinot Noir available at Manitoba Liquor Marts and private wine stores has grown, and now includes examples in several price points and from regions ranging from Austria, South Africa, Bulgaria, New Zealand, Chile and beyond. All of the above regions make well-priced Pinot that’s accessible for those new to the grape but with enough character to please longtime fans.

Here in Canada, producers in both Ontario’s Niagara region as well as B.C.’s Okanagan Valley have embraced the grape, as have those making wine on Vancouver Island, in B.C.’s Similkameen Valley, Prince Edward County and Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley. Many Canadian Pinot Noirs easily hold their own on the global stage, with many landing at very reasonable prices.

Pinot Noir is also extremely food-friendly. It’s an ideal red served slightly chilled with the typical holiday turkey dinner, and also works brilliantly with pork dishes, duck, cedar-plank salmon, milder stews, mushroom risotto, most charcuterie/hors d’oeuvres and more.

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Wines of the week

Henry of Pelham Family Estate 2020 Pinot Noir (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — $18.49, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Raspberry, cherry, floral, spice and subtle earthy notes show quite well on this Ontario Pinot Noir. It’s light-plus bodied and dry, but the red berry and cherry flavours bring freshness and depth, with a zip of acidity and light tannins providing focus and the earthy, white pepper component adding admirable complexity for the price. Drink this approachable Pinot Noir now. 4/5

Jean-Claude Boisset 2019 Les Ursulines Pinot Noir (Bourgogne, France — $29.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Plum, earth, black cherry, mocha and hints of leather and pepper bring Old World charm aromatically on this French Pinot Noir. It’s dry and light-plus bodied, with a decent core of ripe fruit and the structure to match in the medium tannins, splash of acidity and medium-length, almost-saline finish. Combines a modern fruit profile with Old World charm; a very good introductory French Burgundy. 4/5

Lapis Luna 2018 Pinot Noir (North Coast, Calif. — around $27, private wine stores)

This California Pinot Noir brings ripe cherry, mocha, savoury spice, red licorice and meaty notes aromatically. It’s light-plus bodied and dry, with red berry, cola, earth, smoked meat, plum and spice notes front and centre, light black tea-like tannins and a slightly warm, 14.1 alcohol finish. Lots going on here, with great depth of fruit and a tip of the hat to Burgundy. Drink now or hold for up to two years. Available at Kenaston Wine Market, Calabria Market or Ellement Wine + Spirits. 4.5/5

La Crema 2019 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, Calif. — $38.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Medium ruby in colour, there’s deep cherry, red licorice and plum aromas that come with subtle pepper and earth notes. It’s dry and medium bodied, with ripe cherry, raspberry and plum flavours bordering on confected but saved by light tannins and acidity, while a hint of spice comes with some heat from the oak aging and 13.5 per cent alcohol. A decent example of Pinot Noir for those who like things more concentrated and extracted. 3.5/5