Unparalleled Peru

I knew nothing of Peru before my November trip to this South American country that sits on the western edge of the continent. What I discovered was a place that’s knee-deep in all the things I love about travel: inspiring landscapes, cultures as diverse as those landscapes and of course, a cuisine scene that’s endlessly delicious. Come along to Peru!

Spectacular rainforest light

My adventure started as soon as I landed in Lima, which happens to be in the same time zone as Toronto and a direct overnighter from there. Destination: Puerto Maldonado, a city in the southeastern corner of the country and gateway to the Amazon rainforest. From the flight, it was on to a boat on the Tambopata River for a stay at Posada Amazonas Lodge, one of three of Rainforest Expeditions’ family of accommodations.

Time spent in the Peruvian Amazon rainforest is everything your imagination conjures — distant calls of exotic birds, oversized leaves dripping with moisture and an explosion of life on the forest floor. While life is in overdrive 24 hours a day here, it’s at sundown when magic truly takes over. Last light filters through the trees, creating a glow that makes all that lush greenery dance with a touch of gold. It’s a photographer’s dream, complete with sunsets over the river that compete with the best in the world.

Posada Amazonas Lodge is owned by the Ese Eja people, an Indigenous group that makes its home at Infierno, a community along the Tambopata River. All staff and guides are local, and their knowledge is a highlight of a stay in the rainforest. In 1976, the Peruvian government recognized the community and granted them 10,000 hectares of land. Each family was given a plot of farmland to promote prosperity and on my stay, I hopped across the river to visit Graciela and Hector’s farm where they grow papaya, mango, pineapple, yucca and bananas.

Strong Asian influence in Lima

Back in Lima and excited to dive into the city’s food culture, I began to notice a distinct presence of dishes that carried Asian influences. Stir-fries, rice dishes and rolls were everywhere, but they weren’t authentic Chinese or Japanese treats — they were a little different.

Research revealed that the country has a significant Asian history because of immigration that started in the mid-1800s. Chinese labourers arrived first followed by Japanese workers for sugar plantations, railroads, cotton farms and mines. Today, it’s estimated that as many as 10 per cent of Peruvians have Asian ancestry.

I quickly fell in love with lomo saltado, a hearty beef stir-fry that’s a mainstay of chifa cuisine (the combination of Chinese and Peruvian ingredients). Marinating beef, onions and tomatoes are sautéed over high heat, yielding a slight smoky flavour, and the ají amarillo paste (a yellow chili pepper) give it a sweet kick. Best of all, it’s served with two starches — fries and white rice — to soak up every bit of that delicious sauce.

One of the best places to explore the food is at Peru Mucho Gusto, a massive culinary fair that happens in late-October in Lima. Here, vendors offer tastes from coastal, highland and fusion cuisines in a lively festival that includes entertainment, a market, plenty of variations of pisco sours (Peru’s national drink) and even an entire pavilion dedicated to bread!

Why Peruvian ceviche tops Mexico’s

I love Mexico and all its glorious food. But given a choice, I’d pick Peruvian ceviche over the Mexican version every time. Ceviche is a dish of fish or seafood that’s “cooked” in lime juice, rendering the key ingredients firm and opaque. In Mexico, tomatoes, cucumbers, cilantro and avocado are almost always in the dish served with crunchy tortilla chips. I truly love it. Then I discovered Peruvian ceviche.

Urban Kitchen in Lima is a hands-on cooking experience where I got to make my own ceviche after indulging in it at restaurants, food stands and fairs all over Lima. Key ingredients are fresh, firm white fish cut into large chunks and a concoction called tiger milk that blends lime juice, chilis, coriander, ginger, onion, garlic, salt and a touch of fish stock. The fish is marinated for only a few minutes and served with Peruvian corn called choclo, boiled sweet potatoes and thinly sliced red onion. It’s hearty and light all at once, and it’s Peru’s national dish, so it’s not to be missed.

Getting there

Air Transat flies direct from Toronto to Lima on an eight-hour, direct overnight flight.

The official currency of Peru is the Peruvian Sol (PEN).

The population of Peru is 34 million, with 11 million people living in Lima.

If you’re planning a trip into the rainforest, you’ll need to check on vaccinations and take precautions for altitude sickness.

shel@shelzolkewich.com