Wine business affected by coronavirus

Major events, trade shows cancelled, impact for consumers remains unclear

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As the global impact and scale of the coronavirus continues to evolve, people have been rushing to stock up on the essentials. And while those essential provisions might not include a good supply of your favourite beer, wine or spirits, the impact of COVID-19 on the alcohol business has been real and significant — and it’s not looking as if it will be slowing down anytime soon.

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Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 07/03/2020 (2357 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

As the global impact and scale of the coronavirus continues to evolve, people have been rushing to stock up on the essentials. And while those essential provisions might not include a good supply of your favourite beer, wine or spirits, the impact of COVID-19 on the alcohol business has been real and significant — and it’s not looking as if it will be slowing down anytime soon.

Italy, for example, has been one of the hardest-hit countries in the world when it comes to the coronavirus, with more than 100 dead and over 3,000 infected (and rising) and all schools and universities in the country closed until mid-March.

The list of the hardest-hit regions in the country reads like a walk through the northern Italian section of a wine store: Piedmont, Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy. Just last week, a cross-Canada tour by northern Italian producer Pierangelo Tommasi of Tommasi Family Estates, which included a Winnipeg stop, was scuttled.

With concerns about large gatherings of people rising, a number of key trade shows for wine importers, exporters and producers have been cancelled or postponed in Europe and beyond, which could impact the products we see on store shelves in the long run.

Vinitaly is always a key trade show for industry types; it was slated to take place April 19-22 in the northern Verona region, and in early March was pushed back to mid-June. If things continue as they have been, there’s every chance it will be cancelled entirely for 2020.

The ProWein trade fair in Dusseldorf, Germany, one of the largest of the year, announced earlier this week it was cancelling the 2020 fair after initially stating it would simply be postponed. VinExpo Hong Kong, one of Asia’s biggest tastings and trade shows, had originally been slated to run at the end of May, but has been pushed back to early July. A number of other tastings and trade shows in Asia, France and the U.K. have either been put on hold indefinitely, postponed to a later date or cancelled outright.

All of which is to say the industry has certainly been affected, although the impact at a consumer level still remains to be seen — as is the case with many facets of the coronavirus, there are far more questions than answers. Will our supply of northern Italian wines dry up if the quarantines last long enough? Could the Winnipeg Wine Festival be impacted? When do we start stockpiling our favourite booze?

When should we start using cask-strength whisky in place of hand sanitizer?

Beers of the week

Luca Bruno / The Associated Press files
Attendees sample Chianti at Vinitaly in Verona, northern Italy. This year’s trade show has been pushed back because of the coronavirus.
Luca Bruno / The Associated Press files Attendees sample Chianti at Vinitaly in Verona, northern Italy. This year’s trade show has been pushed back because of the coronavirus.

 

Sookram’s Brewing Co. Wavelength West Coast IPA

(Winnipeg — $4.30/473ml cans, brewery now, select beer vendors next week)

Pale gold and slightly hazy with a frothy white head, this West Coast IPA (brewed as part of Sookram’s’ first anniversary celebrations) features El Dorado, Simcoe and cryo Citra hops; aromatically it offers fresh floral, stone fruit, herbal and malt notes. It’s fruity and fresh on the light-bodied, mainly dry palate, with an underlying sharpness (but not bitterness) from the hops that brings focus and slightly peppery notes before the medium finish (thanks to the 6.25 per cent alcohol). Grab this while you can. ★★★★1/2

Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Pemby Tang Milkshake IPA

(Winnipeg — $4.50/473ml cans, brewery and select beer vendors)

Pale gold and very hazy with a frothy white head, this milkshake IPA brewed with lactose, orange juice and vanilla beans brings orange peel, slightly tart yeast, bread dough, pear and subtle vanilla notes aromatically. On the medium-bodied, medium-sweet and creamy palate the lactose/vanilla notes come through with bright orange notes that deliver a Creamsicle component; the bitterness is low and the six per cent alcohol pretty unobtrusive. A solid bet for those who like their beers a bit sweet and rich. ★★★

Trans Canada Brewing Co. County Sour series Plum Sour

(Winnipeg — $4.24/473ml cans, brewery, select beer vendors and Liquor Marts)

Light copper and quite hazy in appearance with a white head, the latest in Trans Canada’s County Sour series brings a decided sour plum note aromatically as well as sweet-and-sour, lemon zest and herbal notes on the nose.

On the tart, light-plus-bodied palate the sour plum notes dominate, with secondary yeast, malt and lemon-candy notes before a relatively short but pleasant finish. ★★★

Winnipeg Brew Werks Dunkel

(Winnipeg — $3.66/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, select beer vendors)

Deep chestnut brown in colour and with a beige head, Winnipeg Brew Werks’ take on a German dark beer has toffee, caramel, dark chocolate and Tootsie Roll notes on the nose.

On the medium-bodied palate things stay slightly drier than the nose might indicate; while there are toasty caramel, chocolate-malt and toffee flavours, they come without much sweetness, and the modest five per cent alcohol means the finish is short but with some decent intensity. ★★★1/2

Low Life Barrel House Diabel Boruta Tart Wine Saison

(Winnipeg — $4.65/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts and select beer vendors)

Pale gold and slightly hazy in colour with a white head, there’s a yeasty funk note (as well as lemon candy, green apple and subtle malt aromas) on the nose of this brew thanks to fermentation with the brettanomyces yeast and the addition of Riesling must.

It’s a dry, very racy and zesty brew that delivers tart lemon, grapefruit and lime notes with an almost-chalky, salty component that’s mouth-watering and attractive for adventurous beer drinkers. There’s remarkable depth and complexity from start to the finish, which lingers thanks to the bracing acidity and the 6.2 per cent alcohol. ★★★★★

Devil May Care Brewing Co. 2019 Enunciator Doppelbock

(Winnipeg – $3.99/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts and select beer vendors)

Deep reddish-copper and clear with a reddish-beige head, the latest iteration of Devil May Care’s doppelbock delivers sweet raisin, malt, wet grain, plum and malt notes aromatically.

On the rich, intense palate the raisin, dried plum, deep malt and subtle chocolate notes never get too sweet, but the eight per cent alcohol delivers a wallop on the long, warm finish. Sip now on a chilly night or put aside until next year’s release.★★★★1/2

Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press
Beers of the week
Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press Beers of the week
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