Mark McEwan: A lean bison tenderloin makes a perfect Sunday dinner

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This article was published 14/08/2021 (1911 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Every Saturday, Chef Mark McEwan, one of Canada’s most celebrated chefs, serves up everything you need for a special weekend meal, including a recipe and expert at-home cooking tips.

In Canada, our seasons are so short, so it’s great to have reliable recipes like this on hand so you can plan ahead. We’re now quickly moving into fall: beets have already arrived and apple season is around the corner! This dish really sings because of the bison: it’s flavourful, low in fat and amazingly tender. With its rich mouth feel, it’s very much like beef tenderloin. The apples with Riesling is a classic combination — the rich body of the wine amplifies the apple and perfectly matches the spices.

Chef tips:

1. When you’re cooking bison, you want a core temperature of 130 degrees, which guarantees a true medium rare. Before serving, let it rest 7 to 10 minutes for maximum juice and flavour.

2. The Fuji apple was a new product in the day so I created a great use for it with this recipe. Golden crisp is my favourite in the apple category and works well too.

3. When you’re cooking beets, don’t trim, peel or halve them, as the colours will bleed.

Five-Spice Bison Tenderloin with Spiced Apples and Mashed Potatoes

Five-spice bison tenderloin

1 whole bison tenderloin, about 2 lb (1 kg), trimmed and tied

3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil

1 tsp (5 mL) five-spice powder

Salt

Spiced apples

2 tsp (10 mL) olive oil

2 braising apples (preferably Fuji), peeled and cut into 1/4-in (5 mm), diced

1 star anise

3 whole cloves

1/2 stick cinnamon

Pinch of salt

2 tbsp (30 mL) brown sugar

1/4 cup (60 mL) Riesling

Preheat oven to 250 F (120 C). Let bison rest at room temperature for 30 minutes, the pat dry with paper towels. Rub lightly with 2 tsp (10 mL) of olive oil. Sprinkle on all sides with five-spice powder and season generously with salt. Heat a large thick-bottomed non-stick skillet on medium-high heat. Heat the remaining oil, then sear the bison on all sides until nicely browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bison to a rack in a shallow roasting dish and roast about 50 minutes, until a meat thermometer reads 115 F (46 C). Turn off oven and return the bison to the oven to rest for 10 to 15 minutes with the door ajar. The internal temperature should reach 125 F (50 C). Transfer bison to a carving board, tent with foil, and let rest another 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a small saucepan on medium-high and add the oil, apple, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Stir frequently to avoid excessive browning. As soon as the apples begin to take on colour, add the sugar and the Riesling. Reduce to a thick syrup and repeat. Remove from the heat.

Carve the bison. Place a mound of mashed potato on each plate. Add 2 slices of bison, the roasted beets. Top the bison with a generous spoonful of spiced apple and serve. Serves 6.

Mashed potatoes

4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled

1 tbsp (15 mL) salt

1/4 cup (60 mL) whole milk

1/4 cup (60 mL) 35% cream

1/4 cup (60 mL) butter

Salt and white pepper

1 bunch chives, sliced as thinly as possible (or minced)

1/2 cup (125 mL) crème fraîche

Bring potatoes to a boil in salted water, then reduce heat and simmer. Meanwhile, combine the milk and cream in a saucepan, scald and set aside. After about 25 minutes, when the potatoes are fork-tender and beginning to fall apart, drain them well and then pass them through a ricer or food mill. Over gentle heat, fold in the scalded milk and cream, butter and seasonings. Finish by folding in chives and crème fraîche. Serves 4.

Roasted beets

1 lb (450 g) young, variegated beets (golden, candy cane, white, red cylinder, etc.)

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

3 cloves garlic, smashed

3 to 4 sprigs thyme

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). Scrub beets well. Spread a sheet of foil on a work surface. Cluster the beets in a single layer at the centre. Drizzle with olive oil. Scatter garlic and thyme over top and season well. Create an envelope with the foil, seal it tightly, and wrap in a second layer of foil. Roast until the beets are tender, anywhere from 45 minutes for a 2 inch (5 cm) beet to nearer 2 hours for large ones. To test, protect your hand with an oven mitt or kitchen cloth and give them a squeeze through the foil.

Let the beets cool for 10 minutes before unwrapping the package. As soon as the beets have cooled enough to touch, peel them (the skin will come off like wet paper). Trim, and cut or slice as desired. Serves 4.

Chef Mark McEwan is a Toronto-based chef, entrepreneur, mentor and writer of bestselling cookbooks. He is a freelance contributor for the Star. Follow him on Twitter: @chef_MarkMcEwan