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This article was published 09/12/2025 (325 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Christmas tastes like honey for Erminio Caligiuri.

Growing up in southern Italy in the 1950s and ‘60s, he looked forward to the honey-based sweets that accompanied the season — sweet Mostaccioli biscuits, fried Pignulata dough balls drizzled in honey and, of course, giurgiulena.

“It’s a very ancient recipe; my mother used to make it and I cook it because my children and my grandchildren like it,” Caligiuri says of the latter.

The crunchy, subtly sweet sesame treats also offer a tangible connection to his Italian heritage since emigrating to Canada. Caligiuri’s family was one of many Italian households that settled in Winnipeg’s West End and Fort Rouge neighbourhoods and connected over shared traditions and recipes.

Giurgiulena were previously only available in Calabria and Sicily during the Christmas season, it’s become a year-round option in Canada, says Caligiuri, who makes the candy three or four times a year.

Optional cinnamon and citrus zest add warmth and brightness to this simple recipe. One thing that’s not optional? Good-quality honey.

“Not all honey is equal and each time you make it you really learn how honey behaves,” Caligiuri says.

He recommends using unpasteurized honey over the pasteurized, liquid version to ensure the giurgiulena solidifies and sets properly, which can take about 24 hours.

Giurgiulena (Sesame Seed Snaps)

250 ml (1 cup) sesame seeds

80 ml (1/3 cup) whole raw almonds

175 ml (3/4 cup) honey

80 ml (1/3 cup) sugar

Zest of half an orange or lemon

Pinch cinnamon (optional)

Coloured sprinkles (optional)

Combine honey and sugar in a medium-sized pot over medium heat and stir until melted and softened. Add the sesame seeds and almonds. Cook, stirring continuously, until it begins to bubble.

Continue stirring and let simmer until mixture turns dark golden-brown in colour, about 20 minutes.

Add the orange or lemon zest and cinnamon, if using.

Pour mixture onto a sheet of parchment paper. Add another sheet of parchment on top and roll out to 1/2-cm thickness with a rolling pin.

Remove the top layer of parchment paper and smooth the top of the candy with halved orange or lemon. The giurgiulena should be smooth and shiny.

Spread sprinkles on top, if using.

While still warm, cut into diamond shapes with a large knife, starting at the edges. Let cool and store in an airtight container.

— Erminio Caligiuri

Homemade Holidays is an annual Free Press tradition featuring 12 festive desserts published over 12 days in December. Click here to find this year’s batch of reader-submitted recipes.

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