Whatever the weather, wine will warm Easter table

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 16/04/2022 (1664 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Between the ongoing pandemic and a wintry April wallop that’s sure to derail even the best-laid plans, there’s every chance this Easter weekend could be a lot like the last two — folks scrambling, hunkered down at home, unable to gather with extended family and friends.

The blizzard effect also means folks might not be able to get out shopping for drinks to match with their celebratory meal— or even ingredients for the big dinner itself.

So whether you’re going traditional Easter dinner or winging it with what’s on hand, here are some flavours that will suit a wide range of palates and dishes, and which may at least put thoughts of spring in your glass — even if the scene outside screams otherwise.

On the beer front, something with a little spice would work well with your typical Easter dinner, and a saison tends to bring that component in spades. The Little Brown Jug Saison (Winnipeg — $4.24/473ml can, brewery), is the brewery’s first foray into the style, and they’ve done a solid job. Medium-deep gold in colour and clear, this saison brings the brewery’s signature clovey aromas along with fresh malt notes, a peppery component from the use of rye grains and hints of banana candy. It’s mainly dry and fairly robust, with plenty of clove/spice/pepper to go with the fresh malt and subtle banana candy notes before the long-ish finish thanks to the 6.4 per cent alcohol. Beyond individual cans from the brewery, the saison is also in the Little Brown Jug Good Times Variety Pack Summer 2022, available at Liquor Marts, vendors and the brewery. It’s $28.68 for eight 473-ml cans — two of each of the saison, IPA, black lager and Hefeweizen, so even if saisons aren’t your thing, you’re sure to find something to your tastes. ★★★★ out of five

There’s never a bad reason to open a bottle of bubbly, be it a big family dinner, hunkering down in a storm or otherwise. The Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige (California — $23.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier made in the traditional champagne method in California. It’s pale straw in colour, with spiced apple, lemon zest, bread dough and mineral aromas. Dry and light-bodied, the lively bubbles accentuate the citrus notes, a solid core of red apple and pear flavours, moderate acidity and a decent-length finish. Decent for the price — not overly complex but fun. ★★★1/2

White wines that deliver some spice along with a touch of sweetness work well with your typical Easter dinner — think Riesling from Ontario, Germany or Australia, Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Argentine Torrontés or a Gewürztraminer. The Willm 2019 Reserve Gewürztraminer (Alsace, France — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) in particular is quite tasty — pale gold in colour, this Alsatian white offers all manner of ripe peach, apricot, pear and mango aromas, as well as perfume/floral and subtle spice notes. It’s medium-bodied, medium-sweet, viscous and quite rich, with loads of tropical and honey flavours. A spicy component on the finish lingers nicely, while the alcohol is 13 per cent — surprisingly high given the amount of sweetness here. Would work as easily with a ham or turkey as it would Thai fare, sushi or medium-spicy curries. ★★★★1/2

For those who prefer a dry but lively white, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a stalwart wine for Easter or otherwise. The Whitehaven 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is pale straw in colour, bringing a decided bell pepper/jalapeño note along with the herbal, gooseberry and grapefruit aromas. It’s light-bodied and bone-dry, with the tart citrus notes stepping up alongside the bell pepper/grassy notes nicely, with racy acidity and a long, clean finish. Not an earth-shattering example, but a decent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc all the same. ★★★

It’s hard to think of spring when, well, you’re anywhere near a window these days. And while rosé wines bring warmer temperatures to mind, they can still be enjoyed on a blustery Easter weekend. The Tawse 2020 Rosé (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — around $6/250-ml can, private wine stores), available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants, is a Niagara blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Merlot, pale pink and offering strawberry leaf, watermelon, raspberry candy and peach aromas. It’s mainly dry, but those red berry flavours are nice and ripe, particularly the strawberry, while the small amount of sweetness works well with the moderate acidity to keep things lively and fun. ★★★1/2

As for red wines, light and fruity is the name of the game for Easter dinner pairings — think Gamay/Beaujolais, Primitivo, entry-level Argentine Malbec or New World Pinot Noir. The Sokol Blosser 2018 Evolution Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Ore. — $27.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is pale brick-ish ruby in colour, with cherry, raspberry candy, plum and forest floor (think wet earth, hints of pine, maybe some mushroom) notes on the nose. It’s light-bodied and dry, with cherry, white pepper, cola, raspberry and plum flavours, well-rounded tannins and a touch of acidity on the finish (it’s 13.5 per cent alcohol). Instead of barrel aging, oak staves were submerged in the stainless steel tanks for a few months, meaning the wood influence is minimal. This West Coast Pinot Noir was likely a bit more lively a year ago, but it’s still drinking nicely now. ★★★1/2

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A couple of local/local-ish producers have picked up some some hardware at a major international spirits competition. Baltic Brothers Craft Spirits, a project of Capital K Distillery, won a gold medal at the 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition for its Sour Cherry Bomba Vodka in the flavoured vodka category, while Gimli’s Crown Royal picked up a few medals as well — a gold for its Reserve Canadian Whisky, a silver for its Vanilla Whisky and a bronze for its Regal Apple Whisky. For the complete list of winners see wfp.to/sfwsc22.

uncorked@mts.net

Twitter: @bensigurdson