Raise a glass, as we kick 2021 in the…

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It’s safe to say that 2021 hasn’t given us much reason to celebrate. But a new year is just over a week away, so rather than toast whatever the last 12 months has been, think of New Year’s Eve as a time to raise a glass, say good riddance to this year and move on.

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Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 24/12/2021 (1770 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

It’s safe to say that 2021 hasn’t given us much reason to celebrate. But a new year is just over a week away, so rather than toast whatever the last 12 months has been, think of New Year’s Eve as a time to raise a glass, say good riddance to this year and move on.

Rather than wait until the last minute and navigate the big crowds at your favourite bottle shop — at a time when big crowds are to be avoided if at all possible — here are some solid options to buy early for toasting the arrival of 2022 when the clock strikes midnight on Dec. 31.

Those who can’t or choose not to drink alcohol don’t have to suffer through a glass of bad dealcoholized sparkling wine from the grocery store anymore. Unlike a lot of the non-alcoholic bubbly sourced from regions such as Belgium (not exactly a viticultural hotbed), the Oddbird NV Spumante (Veneto, Italy – around $20, private wine stores) is made from Glera grapes grown in the Veneto region — just like prosecco. It’s pale straw in colour and brings floral and peach notes you’d expect from regular prosecco, with modest flint and bread dough notes as well. The bubbles on this off-dry sparkler bring plenty of zip with the bright red apple skin, lemon zest and chalky flavours. It doesn’t have the longest finish (no surprise, with zero alcohol), but it’s certainly pleasant and would do well for a New Year’s toast for the under-18ers and those choosing not to drink. ★★★1/2 out of 5

Cava fans can up their game this New Year’s Eve with the Villa Conchi NV Cava Brut Reserva (Cava, Spain — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond). A traditional method sparkling wine made with 30 per cent each of Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo as well as 10 per cent Chardonnay, this Spanish bubbly is pale gold in colour, offering lime zest, chalk, green apple, floral and lemon notes on the nose. It’s dry, light-bodied and racy, with moderate acidity and a chalky note coming along with the tart green apple and lemon-lime flavours and a modestly long finish (it’s 12 per cent alcohol). A definite step up from your typical Spanish Cava. ★★★★

Champagne isn’t the only region in France making good quality bubbles, as demonstrated by the Paul Mas NV Prima Perla Crémant (Limoux, France — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond). From France’s southern Languedoc region comes this sparkling wine, made from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Mauzac. It’s pale straw in colour, and delivers honey, red apple, peach, perfume and melon aromas. Dry and with slightly more body than the Villa Conchi, the red apple and melon flavours are accentuated here, coming with moderate acidity and with things finishing off with a tart peach and chalky note (it’s 12 per cent alcohol). ★★★★

Another fine bottle of French fizz is the Les Athlètes du Vin NV Gardien de Bulles (Touraine, France – around $25, private wine stores). This sparkling Chenin Blanc from the Touraine region of France’s Loire Valley is pale gold in colour, with apple seed and honeycomb aromas arriving with canteloupe and a slightly waxy, flinty note. It’s quite dry and light-plus bodied, delivering red apple, pear, melon and honey notes with a bread dough component that’s attractive, and a chalky finish that brings Flintstone vitamins to mind for this Gen Xer — in a good way. Good complexity but still plenty of fun. Available at Ellement Wine + Spirits. ★★★★

For absolutely stellar Canadian sparkling wine, it’s tough to top the Malivoire NV Bisous Brut Rosé (Beamsville Bench, Ont. – around $40, private wine stores). Pale pink in colour, this traditional method sparkling wine was awarded one of just a handful of platinum medals at WineAlign’s National Wine Awards of Canada (where Malivoire also won winery of the year). Aromatically there are lovely strawberry, floral, peach, biscuit and toasted almond notes, while on the mainly dry, light-bodied palate those components are joined by cherry, fresh raspberry and chalky notes before the bright, lively finish. As good or better than many entry-level champagnes in our market. Available at La Boutique Del Vino. ★★★★1/2

For those who prefer to hoist a beer to ring out 2021, the Little Brown Jug NV Brut IPA (Winnipeg – $4.24/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts and beer vendors) is a worthy choice. Made in celebration of Little Brown Jug’s fifth anniversary earlier this year, this “champagne-like, extra dry” IPA made with Nelson Sauvin and Amarillo hops is medium gold in colour and clear, with fresh malt, bread dough, clove, green apple, citrus and spice notes aromatically. It’s dry, light-bodied and quite vibrant, with the Belgian yeast delivering clove and spice while the fresh, light malt works well with the citrus, green apple and subtle herbal/pepper components before the lengthy, eight per cent finish. Little Brown Jug continues to branch out beyond the (very good) 1919 Belgian pale ale, and beer drinkers continue to reap the rewards. ★★★★

Adventurous beer drinkers will have plenty to chew on with the Trans Canada Brewing Co. 2021 Flanders Red (Winnipeg — $15.74/750ml bottle, brewery, Liquor Marts and select beer vendors). Aged for a whopping 24 months in one of Trans Canada’s very impressive, large-size oak barrels (called foeders), this Belgian-style red ale was then transferred into bourbon barrels to age with Niagara sour cherries — in other words, there’s a lot going on here. This medium-copper, slightly hazy brew brings funky cherry, bread dough, spice and slightly saline notes aromatically. It’s mainly dry, medium-bodied and brings loads of clove, bruised cherry, dough, white pepper and a touch of spicy pepper on the palate and a long, funky finish but one that doesn’t overpower (it’s just 6.5 per cent alcohol). Not for all beer drinkers, but it’s incredibly complex and would be a lovely sipper on Dec. 31 as you toast the coming year. ★★★★1/2

uncorked@mts.net

Twitter: @bensigurdson

Ben Sigurdson

Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer

Ben Sigurdson edits the Free Press books section, and also writes about wine, beer and spirits.

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