Mark McEwan: This chestnut ravioli will make your taste buds sing

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 04/12/2021 (1716 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Every Saturday, Chef Mark McEwan, one of Canada’s most celebrated chefs, serves up everything you need for a special weekend meal, including a recipe and expert at-home cooking tips.

This dish is very complex in its flavour profile but rather easy in process. If you work it over two days, the prep will seem even easier. The chestnut paste works beautifully in this recipe: it has a neutral, nutty flavour with a rich texture. If you choose to skip the foie gras, seared veal loin or a medallion of pork tenderloin would work well with the flavours in this dish. I’d serve it with a small serving of dessert wine, sherry or port.

Chef tips:

1. Make your pasta the day before. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic. When rolling and cutting, don’t allow the pasta to dry out.

2. When cooking the foie gras, ensure that your hood fan works very well. Preheat to 34 high heat in a heavy bottom fry pan. Make sure the pan is dry as the foie gras drops fat rapidly.

3. We typically use only “00” Italian flour but any good all-purpose flour works well for the ravioli.

Chestnut Ravioli with Seared Foie Gras and Madeira-Macerated Raisins

1 cup (250 mL) golden raisins

1/2 cup (125 mL) hot water

1 cup (250 mL) Madeira

3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped onion

1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil

1/2 cup (125 mL) Granny Smith apple, diced

2 tsp (10 mL) granulated sugar

1/2 cup (125 mL) dry Riesling

Pinch each of ground cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg

1/4 cup (60 mL) 35% cream

2 cups (500 mL) pure chestnut paste

1 batch pasta dough

1 egg, lightly beaten

12 oz (375 g) best-quality fresh foie gras

Salt

3 tbsp (45 mL) butter

1 tbsp (15 mL) chives, minced

12 crispy sage leaves

Combine raisins, Madeira and water in a bowl; leave raisins to soak for 2 hours. Drain raisins, reserving soaking liquid. Transfer a quarter of raisins and a quarter of soaking liquid to a blender or food processor and purée. Reserve all three components separately.

In a sauté pan over medium heat, cook onions in oil until translucent. Stir in apple, and 2 minutes later, sugar. Cook until apple is soft; deglaze with Riesling. Add seasonings and cream, reduce until it thickens. Stir in chestnut paste. Heat through; set aside to cool. Transfer to a food processor and pulse thoroughly. The mixture should be thick enough to hold its shape.

To make the chestnut ravioli, roll pasta into thin sheets and spread on a flour-dusted work surface. Use a 3- to 3 1/2-inch (8 to 9 cm) circular cutter to cut pasta into discs. With a 1-inch (2.5 cm) melon baller, place a scoop of chestnut filling at the centre of half the pasta discs. Brush edges with egg wash. Place a second pasta disc on top of each one, and press the two pasta sheets together to seal while carefully pushing as much air from the ravioli as possible. Trim the ravioli with a 2 1/2-inch (6 cm) cutter. Dust ravioli lightly with flour and set aside.

Cut foie gras into 3-oz (85 g) slices. Score one side of each slice; salt generously. Sear in a hot, dry skillet for about 60 seconds per side. Transfer seared foie gras to a warm plate. Drain off almost all fat from the pan. Add 1/2 cup (125 mL) of raisin soaking liquid, 1/4 cup (50 mL) of macerated raisins and 1 heaping tablespoon (25 mL) of raisin paste. Reduce by about half over medium-high heat, then emulsify with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of butter. Correct seasonings.

Meanwhile, boil 20-odd ravioli in salted water until they float, about 3 minutes. Toss drained ravioli with remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter and chives. Transfer to warmed serving bowls (5 for an entrée). Pour pan sauce over ravioli. Top with seared foie gras and crispy sage. Serves 4.

Pasta dough

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) Italian “00” flour

3 eggs

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

Sift flour into bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add eggs and olive oil, turn the mixer low speed; add salt. Mix on low speed until dough clumps together in a ball. The dough should feel only vaguely tacky. If it’s sticky to the touch, incorporate a little more flour. On a floured work surface, knead dough for 2 or 3 minutes. Roll into a ball, wrap tightly in plastic wrap; set aside to rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before rolling. Dust dough with flour again before passing it through a pasta machine. Add more flour if the pasta sticks to the roller. After rolling the dough, rest it again for 30 minutes at room temperature before using. Makes 1 lb (500 g), enough for 4 servings.

Crispy parsley

1 cup (250 mL) vegetable or olive oil

Parsley leaves

In a small skillet, heat oil until nearly smoking. Drop the leaves right in, 1 small batch at a time. When they darken and shrivel, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on towels.

Chef Mark McEwan is a Toronto-based chef, entrepreneur, mentor and writer of bestselling cookbooks. He is a freelance contributor for the Star. Follow him on Twitter: @chef_MarkMcEwan