Fizzy drinks for a sizzling summer

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 17/07/2021 (1900 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Summer 2021 has been a sizzler so far. So perhaps it’s fitting that as drink trends go, there’s a fun, fresh and fizzy drink typically served ice cold that’s been red hot.

Hard seltzers are all the rage. They’re typically lower-calorie, low-to no-sugar drinks with subtle fruit flavours (natural or artificial) that offer an alternative to the sweeter coolers out there. White Claw started the craze a few years back, and since then the category has exploded, occupying a growing amount of shelf space at Liquor Marts and beer vendors.

And while they needn’t be complex, hard seltzers don’t have to be boring (although some certainly are). One of the newest local entries into the hard seltzer market is Nifty Drinks, a joint venture between Patent 5 Distillery and Nonsuch Brewing Co. They’re the latest arrival to Manitoba’s crowded hard seltzer market, which includes a handful of other locals. Fort Garry Brewing Co. has gotten in on the game, Shrugging Doctor Beverage Company created the Whiteshell line of vodka soda drinks, One Great City launched the Shoreline brand and Barn Hammer Brewing Co. is getting set to launch its Super Fun Beverage Co. line of seltzers.

As neighbours in the east end of Winnipeg’s Exchange District, it quickly became apparent to Nonsuch (125 Pacific Ave.) and Patent 5 (108 Alexander Ave.) that their respective philosophies aligned — it was just a matter of finding a reason to collaborate.

“If you visit both spaces, you quickly see that the look and feel are already so well aligned. I certainly felt that the minute I visited Patent 5’s tasting room,” says Matthew Sabourin of Nonsuch.

Callan Anderson of Patent 5 agrees. “I remember the first time I walked into Nonsuch, before we even opened our tasting room, and thinking it was the gold and black version of our red and copper. They feel similar, as spaces and as brands.”

The flavours behind Nifty’s initial two offerings — a passion fruit and orange blossom combo, and a peach- and rose-flavoured hard seltzer — came about when Patent 5 owner Brock Coutts asked Anderson whether making a hard seltzer might be doable. “I looked around the bar… we had some flavours in the form of cocktail bitters,” she recalls. “We usually keep rose water and orange-blossom water on hand, as we use them in cocktails. So I said, ‘Give me five and I’ll put some stuff together.’”

That first attempt became the origin of their peach and rose hard seltzer.

Because Nifty’s hard seltzers were born behind the bar, so to speak, the ingredients in their two initial offerings are part of what sets them apart from the crowded seltzer market. Patent 5’s award-winning vodka serves as the base for both offerings, with real fruit and small amounts of raw cane sugar among the other ingredients in each of the 355-millilitre cans.

It was when trying to figure out carbonation issues that the collaboration came to be. “It was one of those a-ha moments where we were like, ‘You know, we have some neighbours who would know what to do about this,’” says Anderson, referring to Nonsuch. Discussions over beer and cocktails ensued, and Nifty was born.

Nonsuch’s beer production facilities meant it was able to scale up Anderson’s recipes without compromising what was going in the can. The brewery has also added elements to its canning line specifically for the Nifty brand in order to bring the more intense carbonation hard seltzers typically deliver. “It’s allowed us to take the carbonation to a whole other level, one that, quite honestly, beer can’t even touch,” says Sabourin. “When we’re canning, you can smell it on the street, just wafting.”

That effervescence was a key component to what ended up in the peach- and pink-coloured cans. “It was important to us that it’d be super sparkly. That’s what makes seltzers fun,” says Anderson.

For Nifty, creating a hard seltzer that was light and refreshing without sacrificing flavour was key. “I think people really see it as black and white — it’s either something is sweet and it’s sticky, or it has zero sugar and zero carbs and tastes like nothing,” says Anderson. “You can do something in the middle.”

The hope is to win over a wide range of palates beyond those who’d normally drink hard seltzers. With that in mind, Nifty has partnered with Anthony OKS of local hip-hop act the Lytics to create a summer playlist to go along with Nifty’s first two offerings, and there are future partnerships with other local artists in the works.

“I had this idea to make it almost feel like an immersive experience — a welcome into our world,” says Anderson.

They’re working on future flavours as well as exploring potential non-alcoholic offerings, and have worked to ensure their first offerings are available throughout the city as well as in Liquor Marts throughout the province.

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As Manitoba’s pandemic-related restrictions continue to ease, both Patent 5 and Nonsuch are gearing up for bigger business at their respective watering holes. Patent 5’s doors have been closed to the public (save for delivery or takeout) since October; it’s in the process of expanding its bar and finishing its patio, which will triple its previous capacity. “We have a menu that’s been a year-and-a-half in the works now,” Anderson says. “It was originally supposed to be a celebration of spring when it was due to come out in March of 2020. Instead it’s now inspired by the great outdoors in Manitoba.”

Around the corner, meanwhile, Nonsuch has expanded its patio, and has been filling all manner of wood vessels — former cognac and Pineau des Charentes barrels as well as a 1,300-litre oak foeder — for future brews. It is continuing to create more experimental beers via its Vessel brand; in the kitchen, baker-turned-head chef Cole Mospanchuk has been tweaking the menu, and has been doing trial runs on raw-milk cheese production.

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If you’re looking for a spot to enjoy Nifty hard seltzer (or craft beer, wine, cider and the like) during this heat wave, Bijou Patio in the Exchange District (adjacent to Old Market Square) has just reopened, joining the likes of the Garden 955, the Beer Can at the Granite, Le Patio 340 and many more in offering Winnipeggers a spot to gather and raise a glass together.

 

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Fizzy and fun

Here are some quick tasting notes of vodka/sodas/hard seltzers, both local and otherwise… Most bring between 100 and 130 calories, have low (or no carbs), and the first three below have no sugar added. No star ratings this week. All are available at Liquor Marts and beer vendors.

Nude Raspberry Lemon Vodka Soda (Vancouver — $27.99/12x355ml can mixed pack)

Both raspberry and lemon candy aromas come through, with the lemon flavours more prevalent than the raspberry. Crisp, dry, refreshing. Other flavours in the pack include peach, black cherry and lime.

Whiteshell Raspberry Vodka Soda (Winnipeg — $3.89/473ml cans, also available at Shrugging Doctor)

Slightly confected raspberry aromas that are also front and centre flavour-wise, albeit subtly. Could stand to be a bit fizzier, but a decent first offering.

Fort Garry Brewing Co. Black Cherry Seltzer (Winnipeg — $3.59/473ml can, also available at the brewery)

Very slight pale gold in colour, this one smells of black cherry freezies and maraschino cherries. The latter comes through flavour-wise (without the sweetness), with a slightly salty note. On sale for $3.19 until the end of July.

White Claw Raspberry Hard Seltzer ($15.99/6x355ml cans)

Decided raspberry candy note on the nose. The hint of sugar here really ramps up the flavour — it’s more raspberry candy than pure fruit, but tasty all the same.

Nifty Peach and Rose Spirited Craft Seltzer (Winnipeg — $3.39/355ml can, also available at Patent 5)

Complex floral, peach nectar, rose petal aromas. A hint of sweetness, a lovely combo of peach, floral and cane sugar flavours. Really in a league of its own.

Vizzy Pineapple Mango Sparkling Hard Seltzer ($15.99/6x355ml cans)

Smells like pineapple-flavoured Life Savers. Light-bodied, off-dry, pineapple candy and coconut flavours come with a hint of sweetness.

Shoreline Blood Orange Seltzer (Winnipeg — $3.59/473ml cans, also available at One Great City)

Brings a citrus-driven nose (think ripe oranges). The least sweet of the sweetened seltzers, the citrus flavours are appealing. The spritz could stand to be dialled up.

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Twitter: @bensigurdson