New, notable wines include juicy red, fruity white
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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 22/10/2022 (1126 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.
Often this space features a particular theme or area of focus — a grape variety or wine-producing region, for example, or a roundup of new local brews or some other insight into wine, beer, food pairing, local events and beyond.
This week is a simple roundup of new (or new to me) and notable wines I’ve tried over the last few months, whether at home, out for food and drinks, while hosting family over the holidays or otherwise…
For instance, the Moraine 2021 Cliffhanger White (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is the white wine I picked up to go with the Thanksgiving dinner we hosted. For the 2021 vintage, Moraine tweaked the blend of grapes to Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the latter replacing Viognier, which featured in the 2020 blend. It’s better than ever; the bright floral, peach, pineapple, marmalade and pear notes show beautifully aromatically, with just the slightest hint of spice. While it’s fermented to be dry, there’s a slight perception of sweetness thanks to the ripe apple, peach, apricot and pear flavours that deliver a fruit salad of flavour with some nice viscosity and a medium-length, slightly spicy finish. It worked brilliantly with the turkey/ham dishes, but would also sing with Thai dishes, sushi or fresh fruit. 4.5/5
The Long Walk 2020 Footprint Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape, South Africa — $9.75, Liquor Marts and beyond), meanwhile, was a wine I spotted at Liquor Marts recently; it has been de-listed, so they’re blowing it out (it regularly retails for $12.99; same with its red counterpart, a Shiraz). I’m a sucker for a good deal, so I figured I’d give it a go to see whether it was worth stocking up. This South African Sauvignon Blanc is pale gold in colour, and aromatically brings green apple, lemon-lime, grapefruit, gooseberry and a subtle herbal note. On the dry, light-bodied palate the citrus notes come with fairly intense acidity, with an underlying herbal note and a hint of creaminess on the palate thanks to a couple of months’ aging on the lees (yeast cells). Even at the regular price it would be a decent value; for under $10 it’s an ideal white to drink in the next six months, to use for cooking or enjoying with lighter fare. 3.5/5
The Casa La Rad 2020 Solarce rosé (Rioja, Spain — around $18, private wine stores) was a pink wine I picked up in warmer months from Calabria Market. A blend of equal parts Tempranillo, Grenache, Graciano and Mazuelo, this pink wine from Spain’s Rioja region is pale in appearance but brings plenty of floral, strawberry, peach and apricot aromas. It’s dry and light-bodied but certainly doesn’t lack intensity, with the ripe red berry and stone fruit flavours working quite well with an underlying chalky note that adds focus and complexity on the relatively long finish (it’s 13.5 per cent alcohol). There’s lots more going on here than many paler pink wines; enjoy the last gasps of warm weather with this rosé before the snow hits. 4/5
I recently had a hankering for a lighter, juicy red, and decided to test drive the Hahn Estate 2019 Pinot Noir (California — $24.99, Liquor Marts and beyond); this California Pinot Noir is made from grapes primarily sourced from the relatively cool Arroyo Seco region in Monterey county. It’s pale ruby in colour and aromatically brings ripe cherry, strawberry candy, earth, red licorice and spice notes. It’s light-plus-bodied and dry, delivering plush red berry and cherry flavours with subtle earthy and peppery notes, light tannin and some heat on the finish from the 14.5 per cent alcohol. It’s well-made and quite elegant for the price, with plenty of ripe New World flavours without the cloying sweetness that comes with some California reds. 4/5
There was no specific reason for having picked up the Lost Peak 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Wash. — $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) other than the simple label caught my eye — yes, a wine’s packaging is sometimes incentive enough to give it a go (and no, there’s nothing wrong with that). Red licorice, violet, blackberry jam and a touch of mocha are most prevalent on the nose of this Washington State red. It’s dense and chewy, with up-front vanilla and mocha landing with jammy blackberry, cherry and cassis flavours, moderately grippy tannins and a slightly warm, ripe finish. Another red for those who like riper, more plush New World reds without the sweetness. 3/5
A recent visit to the Fort Garry Hotel’s Oval Room Brasserie for some food and drink found the Acentor 2019 Garnacha (Calatayud, Spain — around $24, private wine stores) adorning our table. It’s a Spanish red made from 50-plus-year-old Garnacha bush vines that brings deep red and black berry notes, along with a slightly smoky, spicy note on the nose. On the full-bodied, plush palate things manage to stay dry while still delivering opulent dark berry flavours, a touch of mocha and spice from oak aging, medium-grip tannins and a long, warm finish (it’s 14.5 per cent alcohol). It’s a very good value for such a robust wine; drinkable now, it could also be put away for four to seven years to develop. Available at Kenaston Wine Market, Jones & Company, Calabria Market and possibly other private stores. 4.5/5
uncorked@mts.net
Twitter: @bensigurdson
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