Retrying tried-and-true classics turns up some changes

Opinion

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This article was published 17/09/2022 (1109 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Drinks trends seem to be going in a couple of different directions right now. Some (mainly larger) producers are embracing new trends such as aging wine in bourbon barrels, creating lower-alcohol offerings and hard seltzers, and adding offbeat flavours to products.

On the other end of the spectrum, the wave of natural/minimal-intervention products (particularly wines) continues to swell, with more and more organic, unfiltered, “raw” products gaining shelf space.

Holding steady amid the change-ups are products that have stood the test of time — call them classics, old-school favourites or whatever you like. And while the brands and branding have persisted, not all these tried-and-true products taste quite the same as they once did.

Take the Fort Garry Dark (Winnipeg — $3.79/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors), for example, a locally made English mild ale that has adorned shelves and occupied taps for decades. This English mild ale is cola brown in colour with a beige head, and aromatically seems a touch sweeter than it once was, with a hint of brown sugar that comes with the dark malt, Tootsie Roll and oat aromas. There’s a slight roasty bitterness to the chocolate, toffee and dark malt notes on the slightly creamy, medium-bodied palate, as well as a touch of sweetness; the finish, meanwhile, is relatively short (it’s five per cent alcohol). It’s likely the recipe has changed over the years, as I recall the Fort Garry Dark being a bit less creamy and sweet. Still, a pint at a pub with some curry, chips or nachos would satisfy. 2.5/5

If there was ever an embodiment of an old-school wine, it’s the Mateus NV Rosé (Portugal — $11.99, Liquor Marts and beyond), which has been around in some way, shape or form for the better part of 80 years. This Portuguese pink wine in the distinctive, flask-shaped bottle is made from indigenous grape varieties including Tinta Barocca and Touriga Franca. It’s medium pink in colour and aromatically brings tart raspberry, herbal, cherry and cranberry aromas with a hint of chalkiness. The off-dry, light-bodied palate comes with some spritz, keeping the red berry flavours fresh and lively while accentuating that bit of chalkiness. There’s a hit of acidity on the finish that adds length, as the 11 per cent alcohol is fairly unobtrusive. It’s less sweet and slightly more effervescent than it was in decades past; if you’ve not tried it in some time (or ever) it’s certainly worth a go, with milder cheeses or salads. Watch for some fun limited-edition packaging as well. 3/5

Nothing embodies old-school wine quite like the classic Chianti bottle adorned with wicker. The Bartali 2020 Chianti (Tuscany, Italy — around $16/500ml bottle, private wine stores) is a Sangiovese-based blend that is pale cherry in colour and offers tart cherry, raspberry and plum notes on the nose, as well as a touch of leather and tobacco leaf. It’s medium-bodied, dry and easy-drinking, with a good helping of acidity that ramps up the raspberry and cherry flavours, some modest peppery notes that come with the mild tannins and, at 12.5 per cent alcohol, a short-ish finish. Chill this classic down for about 15 minutes, lay out your best checkered tablecloth and serve with pizza or spaghetti. Picked up at Kenaston Wine Market. 3.5/5

When I started working at wine stores some 25-plus years ago (ugh) there were a few wines that were readily available in our market and that consistently got very good reviews from magazines such as Wine Spectator. Among them was the Rosemount 2020 Shiraz (South Australia — $16.49, Liquor Marts and beyond), which is deep cherry in colour, bringing plush plum, blueberry, ripe cherry, violet and baking spice notes on the nose. It’s medium-plus-bodied and quite jammy (although it manages to avoid getting sweet), with very ripe red berry and blueberry flavours, light acidity and tannin, and some vanilla on the slightly warm finish thanks to the 14.5 per cent alcohol. It’s not the standout that it once was; the depth or character it used to bring has been swapped out for simpler, more fruit-forward notes. It’s quaffable, particularly while it’s on sale for $14.84 until the end of September. Chill for 10 and drink with burgers. 2.5/5

If a bigger old-school red is what you want, the Baron Philppe de Rothschild 2018 Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux, France — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) fits the bill. This vintage is an 84-10-6 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and delivers plum, earth, cocoa, cassis and a hint of barnyard, aromatically. It’s dry and full-bodied, with plenty of plum, blueberry, cassis, black pepper and cocoa, grippy tannins and a decently warm finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol). Let this aerate in a glass for 20-30 minutes and drink with roast beef, heartier pork dishes or beef Wellington. 3/5

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