Lighten up, beer lovers: time for paler, less boozy brews

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This article was published 03/04/2022 (1671 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The hint of spring in the air brings with it a sense of optimism about the season of beers to come.

This year, the path into warmer weather has more options than ever for craft beer lovers. Among the developments: Low Life Barrel House is nearly set to open its Daly Street North brewery and taproom; Devil May Care is shooting for a June launch of its Fort Steet facility; Interlake Brewing Co. will likely open its doors on Gimli’s main drag at some point this year; and the Beer Can at the Granite looks to be coming back for another year.

The coming season of beer is looking good, with the Flatlander’s Beer Festival returning to Canada Life Centre on June 17 and 18. And the planned return of the TD Winnipeg International Jazz Festival and Winnipeg Fringe Festival beer gardens at Old Market Square in mid-June and mid-July, respectively, means more chances to enjoy a cold one outdoors in the Exchange District, while Winnipeg Folk Festival fans will be sipping on Little Brown Jug beers at Birds Hill Park July 7-10.

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Those big, brooding, high-octane porters, stouts and dark ales carried us through a particularly tough winter. But now it’s time for the flavours of sping. The latest batch of local craft beers to hit the shelves at vendors, Liquor Marts and taprooms are mainly lighter in colour, with fresher fruit flavours (often citrus-driven), lower alcohol and less bitterness. Here are six newer brews that (mostly) fit that bill…

Sookram’s Brewing Co. Mellow Greetings Lemon Gose (Winnipeg — $4.50/473ml can, brewery, select beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Lemon peel, coriander and salt are all in the mash of this gose (pronounced go-zuh), one of a handful of beers brewed in honour of Sookram’s Brewing Co.’s third anniversary. It’s pale gold and clear in appearance, and brings mouth-watering citrus rind and salty notes on the nose. Light-plus-bodied and dry, the Mellow Greetings lives up to its name, with tart lemon and salty flavours that are, indeed, less intense than some other beers made in this style, some subtle malt and coriander notes and a short finish (it’s a modest 4.5 per cent alcohol). A solid gose for the uninitiated or those new to the style. 3.5/5

Barn Hammer Brewing Company Paloma Sour (Winnipeg — $5.00/473ml can, brewery, select beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Inspired by the tequila-and-grapefruit-based cocktail of the same name, this beer looks almost as much like grapefruit juice as it smells, although aromatically it also has hints of resinous, agave-like notes reminiscent of tequila. It’s medium-bodied and juicy, with tart grapefruit-juice flavours, a salty component, hints of agave/tequila that come with the malty notes and loads of acidity that lengthen the finish. There’s decent intensity here despite the modest 4.6 per cent alcohol — think of it as a radler on steroids. 3.5/5

Torque Brewing Purple City Lavender Sour (Winnipeg — $3.99/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

The name for this sour beer comes from the phenomenon experienced by staring at the floodlights around the Legislative building at night — if you’re not familiar, Google it or go try it yourself. The floral component is pronounced on the nose of this pale, straw-coloured, hazy sour, working well with the lime zest and almost-salty notes. That saline component is big and bold on the dry, light-bodied palate, with the lime flavours ramped up by moderate acidity. Alcohol is just four per cent and there’s very little bitterness, but the intensity and freshness are impressive. 4/5

One Great City Homebass by the Treble Elderflower Lemon Wheat (Winnipeg — $4.49/473ml cans, brewery, select beer vendors)

Local band the Treble has partnered with One Great City for this wheat beer, in support of the re-release of the band’s song Coming Home. It’s pale straw and hazy, with big, bright wheat aromas and more modest floral and lemon candy notes. Those soft wheat flavours on the off-dry, light-plus bodied palate make way for a malty and almost-chalky component, the modest floral thing and the understated lemon component that brings very little tartness. Like the tune, it’s pleasant and approachable. Five per cent alcohol. 3/5

Handsome Lad Brewing Co. World Famous Palomino Club Cerveza (Winnipeg — $3.79/473ml cans, Torque, select beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Inspired by Winnipeg’s most famous/infamous nightclub, the can notes the beer delivers “a hint of lime” and a “great taste from a famous place.” Like the most common Mexican brews available here, it’s pale straw in colour and clear, with modest malt and corn aromas and just the slightest hint of lime. It’s both slightly bitter and a touch sweet, a bit clumsy on the malty, medium-bodied palate, and the little lime flavour here is more candy than fruit or zest. While the 4.5 per cent alcohol is in line with your typical Mexican brew, the weight and sweetness here are out of sync with the classic “cerveza.” Brewed at Torque. 2/5

Half Pints Brewing Co. Spring Equinox IPA (Winnipeg — $4.59/473ml can, brewery, select beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

The first release of Half Pints’ seasonal IPA series, the Spring Equinox is brewed with Azacca and Cashmere hops, is pale gold in appearance and somewhat hazy. Aromatically the hoppy notes deliver resinous and grassy notes, while the malt profile is strong here as well. It’s dry, medium-bodied and deliciously hoppy, although not ragingly bitter — rather, the grapefruit-pith and grassy/pine notes work beautifully with the tropical fruit and malt flavours. At six per cent alcohol, it all makes for an IPA that manages both power and restraint brilliantly. (For those looking for higher-octane hoppiness, Half Pints’ ever-popular Humulus Ludicrous double IPA is now back in the market.) Delicious. 4.5/5

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