Mark McEwan: This apple pie ‘with a twist’ is sure to delight

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This article was published 20/11/2021 (1813 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Every Saturday, Chef Mark McEwan, one of Canada’s most celebrated chefs, serves up everything you need for a special weekend meal, including a recipe and expert at-home cooking tips.

Apple pie is a classic for a reason, and this recipe raises the bar. Granny Smith apples have the right sour/sweet balance and hold their structure, which makes them the perfect apples for this dessert. To spread out the workload, make the entire crostata the day before, freeze it and bake just before dinner.

Chef tips:

Refrigerating the apples with sugar overnight enhances the flavour and stabilizes the apples. Don’t skip this step.

When melting the sugar for the caramel sauce, don’t stir right away. Also, as tempting as it will be, don’t taste the sauce with your finger! It will be extremely hot.

Make sure to use very cold butter for the pâté brisée and take care not to overwork the dough. Resting the dough overnight is a good option.

Apple Crostata with Caramel Sauce and Sweet Crème Fraiche

8 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced
2 tsp (10 mL) ground cinnamon
3 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 mL) caramel sauce
1 cup (250 mL) dry bread crumbs
Pinch of salt
1 batch pâté brisée
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup (250 mL) pecan praline, chopped (optional)
1 batch sweet crème fraîche
8 apple chips (optional)

Combine diced apple with 2 cups (500 mL) of sugar in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Transfer apples to a colander to drain, pressing on them lightly to expel excess liquid. Combine apples in a bowl with remaining sugar and cinnamon. Add 1 cup (250 mL) of caramel sauce, the bread crumbs and salt; mix well.

Roll out pastry on a floured work surface to a thickness of about 1/8 inch (3 mm). Cut 8 discs from it with a 5-inch (12 cm) round cookie cutter. Mound a ball of apple mixture at the centre of each pastry disc. Brush edges with egg wash. Fold the pastry up over the filling, crimping it every inch or so. (The apple must be walled in but its top should remain exposed.) Transfer tarts to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and freeze them completely — this will ensure they retain their shape when baked.

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Transfer tarts directly from freezer to the oven. Bake until well bronzed, about 30 minutes. Rest briefly. To serve, spread 2 tbsp (30 mL) of remaining caramel sauce at the centre of each plate. Place the warm tart on top. If you choose, sprinkle with chopped pecan praline, top with a dollop of sweet crème fraîche, and finish with an apple chip. Makes 8 tarts.

Caramel sauce

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1 tbsp (15 mL) corn syrup
1 drop lemon juice
3/4 cup (175 mL) 35% cream
2 tbsp (30 mL) butter
Pinch of salt

Combine sugar and 1/4 cup (50 mL) water in a saucepan. Add lemon juice; stir over low heat. As soon as sugar has completely dissolved, add corn syrup. When mixture turns amber, add cream and boil for 60 seconds. Remove from heat and whisk in butter and salt. Makes 1 cup.

Pâté brisée

2 cups (500 mL) cake-and-pastry flour, sifted
Generous pinch of salt
1/2 lb (250 g) butter, cubed and frozen
1 tbsp (15 mL) cider vinegar

Combine flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. Turn to medium-low speed and add butter. Mix until butter is well-dispersed but still slightly clumpy. Add vinegar and 1/4 cup (50 mL) water and continue to mix. Add up to — but not more than — another 1/4 cup (50 mL) water to help dough to ball up. Do not overmix or the pastry will be tough. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and let rest in refrigerator for 2 hours (or overnight) before rolling out.

Candied pecan praline

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
Dash of lemon juice
2 tbsp (30 mL) butter
2 cups (500 mL) pecans, toasted

Over low heat, liquefy sugar with lemon juice and 1/4 cup (50 mL) water. Reduce until mixture attains an amber colour. Off the heat, stir in butter, fold in pecans. Spread mixture on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and let cool.

Sweet crème fraîche

2 cups (500 mL) 35% cream
1/4 cup (50 mL) sour cream
1/2 tbsp (7 mL) granulated sugar
1/2 tbsp (7 mL) lemon juice

Combine half the cream with sour cream, sugar and lemon juice; whisk well. Cover and leave to stand on the counter overnight. Transfer mixture to a sieve lined with cheesecloth and drain until thick, about 2 hours. Whip remaining cream until it forms stiff peaks. Gently but thoroughly fold the thickened crème fraîche into the whipped cream. Makes 2 cups.

Apple chips

2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
Granny Smith apples

Combine sugar with 1/2 cup (125 mL) water and bring to a simmer. With a mandoline or very sharp knife, slice apple crosswise into a dozen-odd large, thin discs. (There is no need to core the apple.) Drop them into the simmering sugar water. As soon as they become translucent, remove to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Leave to dry. Will keep a couple of days in a tightly sealed container.

Chef Mark McEwan is a Toronto-based chef, entrepreneur, mentor and writer of bestselling cookbooks. He is a freelance contributor for the Star. Follow him on Twitter: @chef_MarkMcEwan