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Picking, packing and preserving

The equinox is still five days away, but fall seems to have already made itself at home. I’m not mad about it. I’d take a cool, crisp autumn day over a suffocatingly hot summer afternoon anytime. My pantry’s feeling pretty good about the cooler temps as well.

This is my third time doing any kind of canning in earnest and I’m starting to feel slightly less concerned about poisoning friends, family or myself with ill-processed goodies. The best advice I’ve gotten as a newbie is to use recipes from reputable sources — canning suppliers Bernardin and Ball have tons of lab-tested recipes — and to not stray from the directions. The National Center for Home Food Preservation is another great resource for canning techniques.

An old school water bath canner used to heat and process filled jars. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

An old school water bath canner used to heat and process filled jars. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

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At the beginning of the season, I had high hopes for my vegetable garden. I was going to grow a record number of tomatoes, my cucumbers were going to thrive and I was going to have more hot peppers than I knew what to do with.

My dreams of preserving homegrown pickles and jars of salsa were quickly dashed by one garden plague after another. Aphids, bunnies, powdery mildew, blossom-end rot — you name it, my garden suffered from it. The herbs have flourished, but I planted six jalapeño plants and, to date, have only harvested two very small peppers. The rabbits ate every strawberry as soon as they flushed.

In speaking with other gardeners, I know I’m not alone. The heat and lack of rain seems to have thrown a wrench in everyone’s plans for a bountiful harvest.

So instead, I’ve been working my way through a bounty of apples picked from a friend’s backyard tree. One bucket of fruit has so far been successfully transformed into seven jars of chutney, five jars of jam and three big ol’ jars of applesauce.

This year’s apple harvest was turned into jam, chutney and applesauce. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

This year’s apple harvest was turned into jam, chutney and applesauce. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

I may not be able to live off apple jam, but there’s a primal satisfaction that comes with squirrelling away foodstuffs for the winter. Last year, I did a story on the popularity of canning during the pandemic. I spoke with first-time and longtime canners who took up the centuries-old process for equal parts enjoyment and self-reliance.

“It’s relaxing, it’s rewarding, there’s money to be saved (and) the food you make is way better than anything you could buy,” said Vicky Devillez, who moderates the “What to do with what you grew, in Manitoba” Facebook page, a great little local online community.

A combination apple peeler and corer is perhaps the most satisfying kitchen utensil in existence. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

A combination apple peeler and corer is perhaps the most satisfying kitchen utensil in existence. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

I can relate, Vicky. I bought an apple peeler/corer last year after test-driving one at my sister-in-law’s house and I think it’s my favourite kitchen utensil to date. I could (and did) spend hours spinning apples through the squeaky little device. Between prepping the ingredients, sterilizing the jars and boiling the filled cans, the whole process is quite meditative — and if you’re using an old water bath canner, like yours truly, there’s the added benefit of a steamy kitchen. It’s almost spa-like. Almost.

Have you been doing any canning this year? Let me know how it’s going!

Before I sign off, I want to give you the inside scoop on a very exciting event we’re hosting next month. The Free Press has teamed up with Chef Matty Neufeld of Prairie Kitchen Catering to throw an intimate in-person dinner featuring an entirely made-in-Manitoba menu. The Free Press Fall Supper takes place on Sunday, Oct. 17 at Whitetail Meadow. Tickets go on sale soon and we’ll have a lot more to say about the event in the coming weeks. Keep your eyes peeled on our Eventbrite page for details.

— Eva

 

Eva Wasney, Arts Reporter

 

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Tasty tidbits

  • The geese are coming home to roost (temporarily) at FortWhyte Alive. The nature centre’s Buffalo Stone Cafe is hosting its annual Goose Flight Feasts from Sept. 23 to Oct. 24. Diners will be treated to a three-course meal while watching thousands of migratory geese land on the nearby lake at sunset. Tickets are $70 each and there are three daily seatings Thursdays through Sundays.
  • If geese aren’t your thing but you like wine, cheese and dogs (who doesn’t?), mark Monday, Sept. 27 on your calendar. The Manitoba chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS) is teaming up with The Cheesemongers and the Garden 955 for Natural Wines & Canines. Bring your dog (not required) to The Garden (955 Portage Ave.) starting at 4 p.m. and sample some cheeses and natural wine. Tickets are $20 ($15 for CAPS members) and include a range of cheeses and some natural wine. A portion of the proceeds will benefit Manitoba Underdogs Rescue. For tickets visit wfp.to/canines.
  • For the first time in over 18 months, the Winnipeg Wine Festival is back with its first in-person event on Sept. 23, with a tasting themed around wines from Europe. Taking place at Fort Gibraltar (866 Rue St. Joseph), the event, which starts at 7 p.m., will feature over 40 wines being poured from France, Spain, Italy, Germany and Portugal. Tickets are $75 and are available at wfp.to/winefest.

Recommended fare

Eva: I had a wicked craving for mac and cheese last weekend and was absolutely certain we had one box of Kraft Dinner left in the house. To say I was upset to discover we did not, in fact, have one box left would be… an understatement. It was after 7 p.m. and the “inconvenience store” across the street was already closed, so I scoured the fridge and internet to find a work-able recipe to satisfy my craving.

As the title suggests, this one from The Kitchn is the best stovetop macaroni and cheese recipe I’ve found to date. It was easy to make, super rich and the end result didn’t suffer from substituting oat milk for cow’s milk (I was in a pinch, OK?). Five stars, would make again.

Ben: I bought an Instant Pot a couple of years ago when the pressure-cooking device was all the rage, and after initially trying a few different recipes (including mac and cheese — hello Eva), nothing really stuck as a regular dish except for this vegan chili recipe from Kitchen Treaty, which I made for the umpteenth time the other day.

It’s a simple and delicious dish as the mercury starts to drop, although I’ve tweaked the recipe a bit, cutting the amount of black beans in half and instead sautéeing some Yves veggie ground round, adding some mushrooms and frozen corn as well as a splash of barbecue sauce (and sometimes some red wine and/or Sriracha). We tend to have it on toasted buns with some fries on the side… it’s a total comfort food dish that even my somewhat-picky kids love.

With fall now imminent and the next Winnipeg Free Press Brew Box having gone on sale Thursday, which features two seasonal autumn beers from Trans Canada Brewing Co., my beer-drinking preferences have shifted from fresh and light summery sips to heartier, maltier brews.

For this weekend’s Uncorked I tried a bunch of more robust brews, and among the highlights was the Saison Pruim, Devil May Care Brewing Co.’s plum-infused saison. It delivers a great balance of not-overly-sweet fruit and that spice that saisons tend to bring, and is available at Liquor Marts, beer vendors and at Torque Brewing Co., where the beer is currently made.

What’s simmering

Check out the virtual Reopening Manitoba town hall Ben and Eva hosted this week! It was a wide-ranging conversation with folks from the food and drink industry about how recovery is going and how current restrictions and vaccination requirements are affecting business.

Thanks to our panelists Melanie Foucault, co-owner of Preservation Hall Eatery and Wine Bar; John Heim, president of Torque Brewing; and Shaun Jeffrey, Executive Director and CEO of Manitoba Restaurant and Foodservices Association.

You can rewatch the discussion on YouTube.

 

Recipes and reviews

Melt-in-your-mouth roast halibut

Chef Mark McEwan shares his recipe and tips for perfectly cooked halibut with cherry tomatoes and bone marrow croutons. Find the full recipe here.

- James Tse“With halibut, the most important thing is not to undercook or overcook it,” writes Chef Mark McEwan. “Cook the fish until the flesh just separates.”

– James Tse“With halibut, the most important thing is not to undercook or overcook it,” writes Chef Mark McEwan. “Cook the fish until the flesh just separates.”

 
 

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