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More than hotdogs

Nothing tastes quite as good as nostalgia feels — except maybe the curly fries at The Half Moon Drive In on Henderson Highway.

I stopped by the iconic Lockport area restaurant last weekend on my way home from a very hot and smoky camping trip to the Whiteshell. It was Sunday afternoon and, unsurprisingly, the parking lot was full.

The Half Moon is one of those out-of-town dining spots that serves local tourists and lakebound travellers, while also being a destination unto itself. (Justin Samanski-Langille / Free Press files)

The Half Moon is one of those out-of-town dining spots that serves local tourists and lakebound travellers, while also being a destination unto itself. (Justin Samanski-Langille / Free Press files)

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For the uninitiated: The Half Moon is one of those out-of-town dining spots that serves local tourists and lakebound travellers, while also being a destination unto itself. 

Opened by brothers Peter and Louie Kosowich in 1938, the original hotdog stand existed as a takeout window in a trio of semi-circle buildings just down the road from its current location. The eatery has since changed hands and undergone extensive renovations to add indoor seating, neon lights and a heavy retro diner vibe.

During the pandemic, The Half Moon has reverted to a takeout window and makeshift drive-thru complete with car-hopping teenagers. These days the menu has more than just hotdogs — although that is their claim to fame; in 1981 the honour of Canada’s Best Hot Dog was bestowed upon the restaurant following a national survey by Today Magazine

The eatery has undergone extensive renovations over the years to add indoor seating, neon lights and a heavy retro diner vibe. (Justin Samanski-Langille / Free Press files)

The eatery has undergone extensive renovations over the years to add indoor seating, neon lights and a heavy retro diner vibe. (Justin Samanski-Langille / Free Press files)

I’ve stopped in a few times as an adult, but The Half Moon is and always will be wrapped up in childhood memories of playing arcade games, ordering ice cream at the vintage counter and eating hotdogs at the riverside picnic tables.

One visit in particular sticks out in my mind — although the details are admittedly fuzzy. It was a warm, sunny day and my whole extended family made the scenic drive up Henderson Hwy. for dinner at The Half Moon. Cousins, aunts and uncles piled out of vehicles and descended upon the outdoor tables. My babcia and dziadziu (grandma and grandpa in Polish) were at the centre of the hubbub.

Beyond the outlines of the event, I have a hard time recalling what we were doing there. Big family gatherings aren’t unusual, but it’s rare that we gather anywhere other than someone’s home. I reached out to my “Aunty Archivists” to fill in the gaps. 

Turns out it was Father’s Day in 1996 — I would’ve been six, hence the fuzzy memories — and we were there to celebrate my dziadziu, Frank Wasney, with gifts and raisin pie (his favourite).

Six-year-old Free Press writer Eva Wasney, bottom row centre, poses for a photo with cousins and her grandparents Frank and Michaelene Wasney at The Half Moon for Father’s Day in 1996. (Supplied family photo)

Six-year-old Free Press writer Eva Wasney, bottom row centre, poses for a photo with cousins and her grandparents Frank and Michaelene Wasney at The Half Moon for Father’s Day in 1996. (Supplied family photo)

Frank was a farmer by day and a Canadian Pacific Railway worker by night. His was a hardworking life and it wasn’t often that the family of six left the homestead in East Saint Paul for a meal — especially during the busy summer months. Every now and then, however, the Wasneys would drive up the road to The Half Moon.

My Aunt Carol remembers the original red and white shake shack and the thrill of getting a pop in a glass bottle that could be returned for a whopping two cents. Cream soda was my Aunt Tricia’s go-to and she recalls how momentous it felt to be eating fries and hotdogs together in the family car.

The visit in 1996 was my dziadziu’s last Father’s Day. He died the following year at the age of 88. For many in my family The Half Moon is frozen in time, not because of the ‘50s decor, but because of the fond memories we’ve hitched to a small town hotdog stand on the banks of the Red River.

And it’s not just my family. Last weekend, while reminiscing over a moon dog and curly fries, there was a small group seated at a nearby picnic table covered in gift bags and wrapping paper. It was a family birthday party. Some places are more than places.

I want to hear from you! What’s your favourite local family restaurant and why?

 

Eva Wasney

 

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Tasty tidbits

River Heights coffee lovers, fret not — the space on the corner of Academy Road and Lanark Street, formerly home to a Starbucks, won’t be empty for long. The locals at Empty Cup Collective are setting up shop to pour coffees of all sorts, according to a recent Instagram post. They’re currently already up and running on Panet Road, and also have a Sage Creek location opening in about a month. 

•••

Winnipeg online micro-bakery, Crumb Queen, is hosting a pop-up sale this Saturday at Good Fortune Barbers, 555 Osborne St. Goodies, including an exclusive new cruller flavour, will be available from 10 a.m. until sold out.

•••

Kilter Brewing has ventured into the garden of cider with a new beverage offering. The Forbidden Orchard dry-hopped cider is a collaboration with Winkler’s Dead Horse Cider Company and is available for delivery or pickup at Kilter’s St. Boniface taproom. 

•••

There’s never a bad time for a good hunk of local cheese, and now’s certainly no exception. A recent plea by Loaf and Honey on social media highlighted just how tough it’s been for the local artisanal cheese company, and how much they’ve struggled during the pandemic. They’re not asking for handouts or starting a crowdfunding campaign — they simply hope folks will splurge on a chunk of their Monastic-style cheese to keep them afloat. More about the cheese, including where it can be purchased, can be found on their website.

Recommended fare

Ben: I’ve been immersed in Inside Comedy, Winnipeg-born comedic legend David Steinberg’s look back at the last half-century of comedy, in advance of my having interviewed him prior to his Winnipeg launch. I guess I was inspired to read more memoirs by Canadian comedians, as immediately dove into Seth Rogen’s Yearbook. Rogen also has a local connection, as his grandparents lived here. Yearbook is gut-bustingly funny, in a more R-rated way than Steinberg’s book. 

Drinks-wise I recently took Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 for a test drive. It’s a dry French rosé made from a blend of four red grapes grown in the south of France, and is quite an elegant, fruit-driven pink wine. For this weekend’s Uncorked I switched gears to beers for a preview of the 2021 Flatlanders Beer Festival. Like many fests they’ve gone virtual this year, with taste-at-home mixed boxes available to purchase and pre-recorded or live virtual tastings to watch while you sip. The fantastic Devil May Care Nothin’ But the Hops Vol. 5 isn’t part of this year’s festival, but is the latest in the mixed-tape themed series of brews from local contract brewers, who brew their beers at Torque. It brings Manitoba-grown Comet, Centennial and Chinook hops and is deliciously hoppy and robust — probably the best of the series to date. 

Eva: We grabbed some slices from Shorty’s Pizza this week. Last month, the New York-style pizzeria from Hamilton, Ont. opened its second location in the former home of the Bella Vista at the corner of Maryland Street and Wolseley Avenue. The Bella was another of my favourite family haunts and I was sad to see it go, but I’m happy to report that Shorty’s is slinging some really tasty pies. We ordered a bunch of single slices and really enjoyed the classic pepperoni, Hawaiian (surprisingly spicy) and spicy sausage combinations. The sesame seed crust is a real winner and the nodini pizza dough rolls are a fun play on breadsticks.

MIKE DEAL / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Opening day is tentatively set for the middle of the month, with June 15 as a possible date.

MIKE DEAL / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

Opening day is tentatively set for the middle of the month, with June 15 as a possible date.

The Polaris Music Prize Short List landed last week, and while there’s sadly no Manitoba representation in the Top 10, there’s some worthy contenders for top Canadian album of the year (full disclosure: I’m on the jury this year). Leanne Betasamosake Simpson’s Theory of Ice is positively ethereal and DijahSB’s Head Above The Waters is a masterclass in vulnerable rhymes.

What’s simmering

How hard is it to build a brewery? Low Life Barrel House’s Daly Street North location is slated to open this fall. And while progress has been slow, things are starting to take shape. Ben is documenting the progress for a feature to run around the time Low Life opens their doors. 

Though not food related, Eva has been checking in with the folks at Black Bear Rescue Manitoba to find out how the summer is going with a major influx of cubs. Judy and Roger Stearns are currently caring for nearly 30 orphaned bears at their rescue centre. Keep an eye out for the next installment of this series early next month. You can read the first story here

Recipes and reviews

Halibut that’s worth the work: Chef Mark McEwan shares a weekend-worthy recipe for halibut wrapped in banana leaves and doused in coconut milk.

- James TseWrapping the fish is straightforward, writes Chef Mark McEwan. “Pretend you’re wrapping a present and be as exact as you can to prevent leakage of the coconut milk. When you open it at your table, all the scents fill the air!”

– James TseWrapping the fish is straightforward, writes Chef Mark McEwan. “Pretend you’re wrapping a present and be as exact as you can to prevent leakage of the coconut milk. When you open it at your table, all the scents fill the air!”

 
 

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