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Let’s raise a glass to staying connected

In vino (virtual) veritas

In the Before Times, one of the highlights of writing about wine, beer and spirits for an established media outlet was the chance to visit one or two wine-producing regions a year on press junkets. In the last 15 years that’s meant visiting Austria, Chile, Australia, Germany, Portugal, Argentina, California, B.C./Ontario/Nova Scotia and more.

Needless to say, it’s been a while since I’ve set foot in a winery — my last trip was a November 2019 trek through Portugal’s Dão region with a couple other Canadians. I was slated to visit France’s Montlouis Sur Loire region in spring 2020, but that trip was scuttled, for obvious reasons.

When you visit wine regions, your phone quickly fills up with picturesque shots of vineyards like this one, taken in Portugal’s Dão region in late 2019. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

When you visit wine regions, your phone quickly fills up with picturesque shots of vineyards like this one, taken in Portugal’s Dão region in late 2019. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

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Wineries and wine region marketing boards (and distillers) have deftly adapted to the COVID-19 pandemic restrictions to get their wines in front of industry folks and the general wine-drinking public.

Over the last 15-ish months I’ve been virtually transported to Kentucky, Chile, Italy, California, Tennessee, Australia and more.

The Winnipeg Whisky Festival’s Old Smoky tasting, featuring a number of flavoured whiskies made in Tennessee, was a riot. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

The Winnipeg Whisky Festival’s Old Smoky tasting, featuring a number of flavoured whiskies made in Tennessee, was a riot. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

Local shops have been doing a great job at staying connected with customers since the outset of the pandemic. Many of the city’s wine stores have rolled out themed tastings led by whip-smart tasters, based on a grape, region, style of wine or some other fun theme.

JESSE BOILY / WINNIPEG FREE PRESRayna Debow of De Luca Fine Wines has led many a tasting for the Portage Ave. private wine store. (Jesse Boily / Winnipeg Free Press files)

JESSE BOILY / WINNIPEG FREE PRESRayna Debow of De Luca Fine Wines has led many a tasting for the Portage Ave. private wine store. (Jesse Boily / Winnipeg Free Press files)

Many of these tastings have seen hosts/organizers pivot to portioning out smaller quantities of their wares into sealable plastic pouches, an innovative way to send products to wine drinkers and keep prices (and breakage) down. They’re like juice boxes for grown ups.

A recent Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon virtual tasting featured samples of high-end reds portioned out in plastic pouches for participants. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

A recent Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon virtual tasting featured samples of high-end reds portioned out in plastic pouches for participants. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

The most recent virtual tastings I attended came courtesy of Vins D’Alsace, who hosted the first “digitasting” of its kind for those in the trade. Participants registered for the Millesime Alsace virtual event, held June 7-9, on the event’s website, selected producers from the French wine region from which to receive samples, then booked virtual appointments in 15- or 30-minute increments to taste the wines with the folks who made the stuff.

The Millesime Alsace ‘digitasting’ featured 30ml glass bottles of four wines from each of the participating French producers. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

The Millesime Alsace ‘digitasting’ featured 30ml glass bottles of four wines from each of the participating French producers. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

Of the countless virtual tastings I’ve done in the past 15-plus months, the Alsace event came closest to emulating the winery experience I so dearly miss.

No virtual event will ever perfectly capture the experience of seeing/touching/tasting grapes in the vineyard, hearing the stories behind a family-run vineyard, the smell of fermentation tanks/barrel rooms, etc.

When you visit wineries, your phone also gets filled up with photos of barrels. These ones, photographed in 2017, are filled with red Argentine goodness. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

When you visit wineries, your phone also gets filled up with photos of barrels. These ones, photographed in 2017, are filled with red Argentine goodness. (Ben Sigurdson / Winnipeg Free Press)

Having said that, here’s hoping you might join me for a couple virtual tastings that I’m hosting.

The first is on Thursday, June 17, as the Free Press launches the second Brew Box, this time featuring beer from local brewer Little Brown Jug as well as snacks from Tomahawk Chips and Decadence Chocolates.

I’ll chat with Little Brown Jug brewer Rob McWhinney, as well as other guests (including Rob Stansel, who created the brilliant Middle Tap map of breweries).

The Brew Box is $25 and includes beer, glassware, snacks and more. For details and to sign up, click here

The Winnipeg Free Press Brew Box, which includes local beer and goodies. (Mikaela Mackenzie / Winnipeg Free Press)

The Winnipeg Free Press Brew Box, which includes local beer and goodies. (Mikaela Mackenzie / Winnipeg Free Press)

I’m also quarterbacking a tasting with Ontario wine producers on Thursday, June 24. It’s free, and will feature wines available for purchase in our market and a chat with a few of Ontario’s most savvy wine personalities. To register and for more info, click here

Virtual tastings have filled the gap, but there’s only so much sniffing, swirling and sipping you can do in front of a laptop before you feel like you’re going to lose it.

While I can’t wait to explore wineries in person again, I’ll settle for the opportunity to once again raising a glass in person (safely, outdoors) this weekend with a couple friends and maybe some family.

 

Ben Sigurdson, Literary editor, drinks writer

 

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Tasty tidbits

The spot where the Bella Vista long stood is being taken over by Shorty’s, a New York-style pizza joint from Hamilton that’s expanding into our market. Malak Abas has more.

MIKE DEAL / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Opening day is tentatively set for the middle of the month, with June 15 as a possible date.

MIKE DEAL / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

Opening day is tentatively set for the middle of the month, with June 15 as a possible date.

• • •

In not-so-tasty tidbits news, Blackbird Brasserie announced via social media that they won’t be reopening the Tache Ave. eatery. 

• • •

Earls on Main St. is hopping across the street and into the new development at 300 Main St. — Free Press business reporter Martin Cash has the details

• • •

Osborne Village will soon have another taco joint, if GF Tacos’ Instagram page is any indication.

• • •

Against all odds, Preservation Hall Eatery + Wine Bar opened a year ago this month, in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic. The Empress St. eatery has only been able to welcome in-person guests for half of those 52 weeks.

• • •

The farmer’s market at Food Fare’s St. James location is open for its second season. The fresh produce stand is the brainchild of Tarik Zeid, son of the local grocery chain’s owner. 

JESSE BOILY / WINNIPEG FREE PRESSTarik Zeid sells fruit and vegetables at a weekend farmers market in the parking lot of the Food Fare location at Mount Royal Road.

JESSE BOILY / WINNIPEG FREE PRESSTarik Zeid sells fruit and vegetables at a weekend farmers market in the parking lot of the Food Fare location at Mount Royal Road.

Recommended fare

Ben: The first of Barn Hammer’s new Monolithic series of India Pale Ales is out and, not surprisingly, it’s delicious. IPAs will love their initial offering, made using Simcoe hops. At 6.3 ABV, there’s some kick on the finish. Sookrams’ Time Loop Session IPA, meanwhile, brings all the intense flavours of an IPA but with a more modest 4.9 per cent ABV. 

I’ve been powering through C.C. Benison’s thriller Paul is Dead, which is the Free Press Book Club pick for June. It’s a great read, with much of the action taking place between Winnipeg and Gimli. When I need a break from reading I’ve been devouring the Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive

Eva: If you’re looking for a new East Indian restaurant, I would highly recommend checking out Bread and Biryani. They opened on Ellice in February and have a substantial menu with tons of vegetarian options. We accidentally ordered a dozen veggie samosas and were more than happy to have a double order (the accompanying tamarind sauce was out of this world).

I’ve been working my way through High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America on Netflix. The four-part docuseries chronicles how African ingredients and cooking traditions made their way to America through the slave trade. It’s based on a book of the same name by culinary historian Jessica B. Harris and is hosted by chef and journalist Stephen Satterfield.

What’s simmering

Once restrictions ease and folks are able to once hit a patio for a drink, beer gardens such as Cargo Bar at Assiniboine Park, the Beer Can at the Granite Curling Club and The Times Change(d) Outside will be joined in short order by The Garden 955, a beer garden currently being set up at 955 Portage Ave. Ben is checking in with those pulling the project together.

Patrons eagerly wait to enter The Beer Can and bask in the warm weather. (Daniel Crump / Winnipeg Free Press)

Patrons eagerly wait to enter The Beer Can and bask in the warm weather. (Daniel Crump / Winnipeg Free Press)

Recipes and reviews

Homemade: Spaghetti and ricotta meatballs

This week on Homemade, Kristen Chemerika-Lew and Kyle Lew, chef-owners of Lark and Chew Catering, share a family favourite: spaghetti and meatballs. They make it at least once a week for their two picky-ish kids. Their take on the classic includes a low-maintenance tomato sauce and meatballs with creamy ricotta, salty pecorino cheese, fresh basil and spicy red pepper flakes. Visit this link for a how-to video.

 
 

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